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Yet another Stuck in Zero G

Discussion in 'Accidents and Near Misses' started by Steve Kugath, Aug 17, 2017.

  1. Steve Kugath

    Steve Kugath

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  2. nathanslc

    nathanslc

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    This brings back fond memories of Chambers Ram :eek:. Freeze fest goal? But only if Dan and Wes are there!
    Last edited: Aug 18, 2017
    Wes1, Bill and Ram like this.
  3. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    A gallon of dish soap...wow...

    Hope she's gonna be ok. Sounds like folks got WORKED.
    Ram likes this.
  4. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    Comment on the KSL article:

    The state needs to fill it with concrete to prevent future issues, such as this. Just like what they did to Nutty Putty Cave.

    Wow. Come on, state...get on it!
    darhawk and nathanslc like this.
  5. Bill

    Bill ... Staff Member

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    Is it only a matter of time before SAR teams get sick of this reoccurring situation and start plugging the low route with rocks?
  6. EvergreenDean

    EvergreenDean Master of the obvious

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    To quote a friend when asked why he took six hours to do Middle Lep..."Noobs and fattys".


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  7. Iceaxe

    Iceaxe

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    It's not the low route where they get stuck, it's going over the chokestone and dropping down to quickly.

    The SAR's could be virtually eliminated by installing a bolt 6' above the chokestone. This would greatly improve the rappel angle so folks would not try and drop the bombay to early. A bolt there would also allow for easier self rescue because of the same improved angle advantage.

    Normally I'm anti bolt, but I hate seeing so much SAR time and money spent when it could go to a better use.
  8. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    In this case, it was the low route. Here is what she posted on Facebook:

    I tried to stem up to the chokestone and couldn't get up so I thought I could try and fit through the lower section. By the time I realized I couldn't go forward, I was too wedged to get back and my feet were dangling so I couldn't get a good grip to get myself out. Luckily my husband was strong enough to get up to the chokestone and rappel down to get help. Scary stuff.
  9. Ram

    Ram

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    This is part of an e-mail I got back on July 18th....


    A bolt has appeared in Zero Gravity at the final chockstone. The fella that placed it now regrets it and is willing to go back and pull it out.

    Not sure if it has been done yet.

    It is in in a WSA, thus illegal
    Taylor likes this.
  10. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    Hi Ram. This isn't meant to be in defense of the bolt, but isn't Zero G outside the WSA? I've always thought that the WSA boundary goes along the front of the Reef.
  11. Ram

    Ram

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    Don't know, but isn't Zero G east of where the Swell swells? The comment came from someone who had been contact with the approbriate land manager. Someone here will pull up a map, I'm sure
  12. Teasdale

    Teasdale

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    It was quite a mess they left behind. I actually picked up another arm full of snack wrappers and such on the walk out. They also drilled two new bolts to pull on her to get the "sawing back and forth" action to un wedge her. There is a bolt on the RDC side 20 feet before the choke-stone and another on the LDC side 20 feet past the choke-stone. They removed the hanger at the bolt on the choke-stone.

    Getting to the new far bolt requires a higher stem that is slightly harder than anything else in the canyon (yesterday it was made much harder in that I was not really expecting there to be liquid dawn all over every thing, the choke-stone was super slick). It will be a more straight forward of a rappel from the far bolt, no pendulum action, but it is not a stem everyone will be excited about.

    DSCF5527.
    Lindsey Hargrave and Bill like this.
  13. Teasdale

    Teasdale

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    This is picture from below working my way out to the new bolt. It's not bad at all if you are comfortable with this sort of thing. Like I said, slightly harder than the stemming at the choke-stone. DSCF5518.
    Tirrus and Bill like this.
  14. Tirrus

    Tirrus Rope rider.

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    Thanks for doing a cleanup! Looks like a slick mess.
  15. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    If someone stumbled on that mess before they heard about the rescue in the news, I wonder what they would think?
  16. Bill

    Bill ... Staff Member

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    The final feature is inside the San Rafael Reef WSA. The boundary is 1000' down canyon.
    38°46'25.5"N 110°29'27.5"W
    38.773744, -110.490983
  17. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    And who says it is illegal to bolt in THAT particular WSA? Rules vary land manager to land manager. It is legal to hand drill in many Wilderness Areas and in many WSAs. It is illegal in other WSA's. It is illegal in some WSA's for concessionaires to place bolts, but Okay for private citizens to do so.

    Tom
    Brian in SLC likes this.
  18. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    I don't know if it is illegal or not, but in the last 10 years or so, there have been a lot of bolted sport climbing routes put up in the San Rafael Reef. The Reef is becoming a popular climbing area.
  19. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    Sport climbing? 10 lead bolts in 1700 feet of climbing?

    https://www.mountainproject.com/v/death-by-chocolate/105718096

    Funny to read the comments with respect to "sport climbing"...

    I think most of these routes are 8-10+ years old by now. And, Paul bailed for the homeland...so...the psyche and energy for new stuff is on the wane...(although Ben, Mark and a few other fellers are still around...).

    The kids had been busy, though. Mountainproject has 289 routes listed for the southern Swell with the eastern reef containing 222 routes.
  20. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    That's a trad line, but there have been several trad, sport, and TR lines put up in the Reef in the last 10 (maybe a little more?) years (even more then on MP).

    I would assume that with all the routes (the trad lines still have bolted stations), it must be legal in this particular WSA?
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