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Why we wear helmets... (examples)

Discussion in 'Accidents and Near Misses' started by ratagonia, Jun 22, 2016.

  1. ratagonia


    Mount Carmel, Utah
    Nicolas Brinkman said on 6/22/2016:

    I would like to take a moment to acknowledge Wolfgang Schweiger today, June 22 2016.
    Today marks the 12th anniversary of the day that my life, my mother and sister's lives, and my father's life changed forever. It has taken me nearly this many years to fully understand exactly how much my father's body and brain had to overcome in order to make the miraculous recovery that he made. I was 9 years old at the time of his accident and all that I understood was that he was severely injured and slowly recovering. I now realize that I likely would not have a father today without the world class doctors at St. Anthony hospital and Craig rehab facility, the amazing support from friends and family, the countless hours of care and effort my mother devoted to my sister and I and his recovery, and most importantly my father's incredible determination to heal. I am immeasurably grateful to still have him in my life and I would like to extend that gratitude to everyone who played a part in his recovery.
    Dad, you're one tough son of a bitch. I've learned so much from you and I wouldn't be who I am today if things had gone differently in 2004. You're the only 12 year old I know who has that much body hair. I love you.

    My understanding is he was not wearing a helmet. - Tom

    Wolfgang Schweiger hurt in Boulder Canyon
    Submitted By: Malcolm Daly on Jun 29, 2004
    Add Comment
    The Daily Camera Story, and updates:

    I have good news about Wolf today. Heidi (Wolf's wife, for those unaware) called last night and left us an encouraging message. She said Wolf was awake a lot yesterday. He actually stood with some help and sat in a chair. He looked at her and smiled and recognized a few more people, and did everything the doctors asked. Though he didn't talk at all yesterday, he has previously......different parts are resting and healing at different paces. The outlook sounds very positive, and we are all amazed to hear this kind of report so early in his recovery.

    With Wolf's condition steadily improving, we feel it's an appropriate time to provide additional assistance to the family. We have researched a few options that we feel may be helpful, but will speak directly with Heidi this morning to confirm her and her family's needs. We still encourage people NOT to visit Wolf yet, as he needs incredible amounts of rest for his recovery to continue. However, Heidi wanted to express, once again, her appreciation for everyone's support and concern.

    Wolf continues to improve but at the same time, is experiencing some setbacks. They discovered Wolf's left wrist is dislocated / broken and may require surgery. Apparently, Wolf has had considerable swelling throughout his body, including both wrists, and the injury wasn't discovered until this weekend. His swelling, however, has now started to dissipate and his other injuries continue to heal well. The accumulation of fluid in his lungs has led to a mild case of pneumonia which they are treating with antibiotics.

    Wolf has, at times, been responsive to voice commands, having squeezed a hand when requested, and has even opened his eyes to recognize a few people. He has even responded verbally from time to time. Wolf continues to drift in and out of responsiveness, but again, that is expected and shows positive signs of the slow comeback expected with type of injury. Doctors assure us that he is experiencing a very positive recovery for this stage in the game.

    As a reminder to everyone, Wolf's recovery will be a slow and lengthy process. He is still not ready to receive any visitors. What he needs most right now is rest and your positive thoughts and prayers. As more news becomes available, and as we determine the best ways to help him and his family, I will share that information.

    Longtime climber hurt in fall at Boulder Falls
    Helicopter landing on Colo. 119 delays traffic for rescue

    By Amy Hebert, Camera Staff Writer
    June 23, 2004

    A longtime Boulder climber suffered serious head injuries Tuesday when he fell about 25 feet because his partner accidentally released their rope, rescuers said.

    Wolfgang Schweiger, 45, was conscious but unresponsive when rescuers reached him about 300 feet above Boulder Falls off Colo. 119, said Dave Booton, Boulder County emergency services coordinator.

    The accident happened about 4 p.m. as Schweiger was belaying back down after ascending an unknown route, Booton said. Without realizing the rope was too short, Schweiger's partner, whose name was not released, fed the whole length through his belaying device, Booton said.

    "As he's lowering him down, the rope just pulled through his belay plate, and the guy just fell 25 feet," Booton said. "This happens more than it should."

    Schweiger was airlifted to St. Anthony Central Hospital in Denver after a complicated two-hour rescue effort that involved moving him over the falls on a stretcher suspended from a makeshift zip-line. His condition was not available late Tuesday.

    The helicopter landed on the highway, bringing commuters between Boulder and Nederland to a standstill between about 5:30 and 6 p.m.

    Erik Su, who was climbing nearby, said he looked up and saw Schweiger fall and expected to see the rope stop his descent.

    "Then I saw him bounce on the ground," Su said.

    Schweiger is a seasoned climber who's well known in Boulder's climbing circles, said Gary Neptune, owner of Neptune Mountaineering. Neptune said Schweiger is a sales representative for Petzl, a company that makes climbing gear, and 5.10 climbing shoes.

    "He's just a really good climber, but very low-key about it all," Neptune said. "You couldn't have a nicer guy or a more honest business associate."

    Neptune said sport climbing, which is "highly controlled" with pre-placed anchors and planned routes, can be deceptive because people sometimes take their safety for granted.

    "It's possible that because of the generally safe manner of what they were doing, they let their guard down a little bit," he said.
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  2. stefan

    stefan wandering utahn

    ... and also why we put them on before/beginning a canyon:

    M.R. Kelsey wrote: "... Then it's down to the dark bottom with 2 potholes (they should be never too deep). It was there MRK slipped and fell backwards about 1m hitting his head on the wall; it was then we all put on helmets! It was not a serious thing, but with all the sweat, blood was running down his face all day long ..."
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  3. Stillnoeyeddeer


    I find it ironic that some folks don't see the value of wearing a helmet in a canyon. A safety training officer for a large energy company that I work with insists that if an accident were to happen every time we "cut a corner" or failed to utilize personal protective equipment, lock-out/tag-out, etc., we would be steadfast in obeying the safety polices. However, an accident doesn't happen every time we don't wear a helmet. Nor does an accident happen every time we accelerate through a "pink" traffic light. Because there was not a negative outcome by our actions (or lack of), our behavior is reinforced. We cut a corner, got away with it, and it saved us time and energy. By luck and by chance, we continue to get away with it. Time and time again.
    Until....We Don't.
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  4. ratagonia


    Mount Carmel, Utah
    Applies to a lot of other aspects of canyoneering...

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  5. bhalvers2002


    Helmets a must.

    Last Friday, a group of 2 put into Kolob just ahead of us. We bumped into them again about rap 5 or so, at the end of what many do as a 2-stage rap. Long rap of 100 feet or so (1st picture) and then you get to a pool and swim until you reach a chockstone (2nd picture), and rap another 30 feet. The group ahead did the 1st part of the rap and then rapped off the existing webbing at the chockstone. Apparently, the webbing blew out at the chockstone (my guess is was old and likely not well inspected) once on rappel and the guy fell backwards, hit his head on the rock, briefly blacked out and went into the pool, which was deep enough to produce nothing more than a big splash. He quickly came to when he hit the pool. Fortunately, he WAS wearing a helmet and he didn't appear more than just shaken. I assume they finished the canyon just fine because we never saw them again.

    His partner was NOT wearing a helmet. I can only guess how this would have changed their trip (and ours) had the other guy experienced the fall.


    Last edited: Jun 24, 2016
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  6. Ram


    Even he knows to wear a helmet :tongue:

    A helmet on His Holiness: Dalai Lama dons B-Cycle headgear in Boulder
    By Mitchell Byars
    Staff Writer

    Boulder Mayor Suzanne Jones shares a laugh with the Dalai Lama after she gifted him a helmet during the morning session in the Coors Event Center at the University of Colorado Boulder on Thursday. More photos: (Autumn Parry/Staff Photographer) June 23, 2016

    Photos: The Dalai Lama at the Coors Events Center on the University of Colorado Boulder Campus
    People traveled from far and wide to hear what goes on in the head of the Dalai Lama. But for a few minutes, it was the thing on the Dalai Lama's head that drew everyone's attention.

    The Tibetan was given a B-Cycle helmet and jersey by Boulder Mayor Suzanne Jones as a gift before the first of his two scheduled teachings at the University of Colorado's Coors Event Center on Thursday.

    "It was Bike to Work Day yesterday," Jones said.

    Boulder Mayor Suzanne Jones helps the Dalai Lama adjust a helmet that she gifted him with during Thursday's morning session of his teachings at the Coors Events Center at the University of Colorado at Boulder campus. (Autumn Parry / Staff Photographer)
    Much to the delight of the crowd, His Holiness put on the helmet, and the slightly ill-fitting headgear sat lightly atop his head for several minutes before he took it off to continue his speech.

    James Waddell, the executive director of B-Cycles — a nonprofit bike sharing organization — said a city official approached him about giving His Holiness a branded bike jersey.

    "He called me and said, 'Do you have a jersey for the Dalai Lama?'" Waddell said. "That's one I've never heard."

    Waddell gave the city a jersey and also tossed in a branded bike helmet he happened to have.

    "I was sure he wasn't going to put either of them on," said Waddell. "I didn't even know the mayor was going to be presenting it to him on stage. I thought it would just be a private gift-giving thing."

    But sure enough, photos of the Dalai Lama holding the jersey and donning the helmet were all over social media.

    "It was a pretty cool thing to see," Waddell said.

    The helmets were actually made by a Portland, Ore.-based company called Nutcase Helmets, which made B-Cycle a batch of the custom promotional helmets in exchange for some branding on their bikes.

    Meghan Sinnott, the marketing manager with Nutcase, said the company had no idea about the presentation until they saw the photos pop up online.

    "It was quite an honor to be on the head of His Holiness," Sinnott said. "We are obviously big fans at Nutcase of everything that he does."

    While The Dalai Lama said he is too old to ride bicycles anymore, Sinnott pointed out that the helmet is certified for both bicycle and skateboard riders if he changes his mind.

    "He's safe no matter what he decides to do," Sinnottt said.

    Sinnott said the company affectionately refers to the people who wear their gear as "nutcases," though she hesitated to bestow that title upon the religious leader.

    The Dalia Lama with his gift of a bike helmet at the Coors Events Center on the University of Colorado campus. (Autumn Parry / Staff photographer)
    "It was a funny moment, because we often joke, 'so-and-so is a nutcase,'" Sinnott said. "You can't really call His Holiness a 'nutcase,' but he certainly has our spirit."

    The Dalai Lama is no stranger to donning the native headgear of whatever city he visits, often donning caps of the local sports team or university while touring.

    Sure enough, His Holiness donned a CU Buffs visor for his second teaching.

    But nothing may have won the Dalai Lama more points with Boulderites than the helmet, though he may not have won any style points for way it was precariously perched on his head.

    "No matter how big or famous you are, it kind of proves that helmets can look kind of dorky on everyone," Waddell said.

    Mitchell Byars: 303-473-1329, or
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  7. AW~


    Hmm, sounds like you arent all need to stay in your home, glued to fakebook ghettos. Very safe. Wear the helmet and the collective will take care of you and stop the evil nazis. Unlimited first descents too.
  8. hank moon

    hank moon kinetically bulbous



    This helmet was dented in several places while on an expedition to India's Mt. Nilkantha. During our multi-day descent we were only a handful of rappels from moderate terrain. Everything had gone smoothly. But this particular rappel was not ideal as there was non-vertical terrain where we had to pull our ropes. Our fear of having our ropes get caught happened. One of my partners ascended back up the rope to free it. Near the top a loose rock was knocked off and fell on top of my head, cracking my helmet, but I was A-Okay.

    Thanks Petzl!


    Bozeman, MT"


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  9. ratagonia


    Mount Carmel, Utah
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  10. Canyon Monkey

    Canyon Monkey Useful Idiot


    The author Ryan McCauley and friend.

    Eager to get down and move on to the next climb, I threw my rope ends and started to rappel. I don't have another memory until about a week or so later, when the meds wore off in the hospital.

    About 80-percent of the time, I remember to tie knots at the end of the rope when I rappel. If I'm being honest with myself, that’s about how often I wear my helmet. I've been climbing for almost five years, and the most action my helmet ever saw was a desperate moment in a narrow chimney on Epinephrine, in Red Rocks, where I stood up into a rock ledge.

    I was wearing a helmet that day, but I forgot the knots. The two-pitch route I was rappelling wound slightly left, making it impossible to see the belay area below. I rappelled off the end of my rope, with 20 feet to the next rappel station, hit a ledge, and ricocheted another 40 feet to the ground.

    Paramedics airlifted me to the nearest level I trauma center.

    I broke both femurs (my right in two places), shattered my kneecaps, broke the ball of my right hip clean off, fractured my left ankle, my right arm, broke multiple ribs, fractured my collarbone and shoulder blade, sustained compression fractures on my lower spine and chipped something in my neck, as well as partially deflated a lung and suffered lacerations to my liver and spleen.

    "The blood splatter on the inside was evidence alone that I would not be here today had I forgotten to wear it."

    I had three major surgeries while in the ICU, where I stayed for a month and a half to recover and begin physical therapy. There were setbacks along the way, such as pneumonia and a condition called heterotopic ossification, where your body grows unnecessary bone outside of the skeleton. However, despite all the frustrations and pain of learning to bend my knees again, I am forever grateful that I was wearing my helmet that day.

    The blood splatter on the inside was evidence alone that I would not be here today had I forgotten to wear it.

    I took countless cognitive tests during my stay in the hospital, and as a 7th grade science teacher, it initially enraged me to fail math calculations that I knew were at a middle school level. However, within just a few days, things became easier. By the end of my stay, I tested above average for someone at my age level who has been knocked unconscious.

    Regaining my personality has only made me more determined to conquer the hurdles that lay ahead so I can get back outside. Knowing how lucky I am to be able to walk again on day, I celebrated with an outing to The North Face store after being discharged from the hospital. The salesperson watched me struggling to try on down jackets in my wheelchair. “That one is great for wearing around town," she said.

    I stared at her, confused. "Oh no. I'm buying this for alpine climbing."

    —Ryan McCauley
    Posted on Rock & Ice 26-Aug-2015 via the web
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2017
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  11. hank moon

    hank moon kinetically bulbous


    By Ashley Stilson | Posted Jul 1st, 2017 @ 6:31pm

    10PM: Rock climber critically injured after falling in Big Cottonwood Canyon
    KSL TV

    BIG COTTONWOOD CANYON — A 20-year-old woman was hospitalized in critical condition Saturday after she fell while rock climbing in Big Cottonwood Canyon.

    The woman was not wearing a helmet when she fell about 50 feet near the Storm Mountain area about 5 p.m., said Unified Police Lt. Paul Barker.

    The woman, whose name was not immediately released, suffered a head injury, but regained consciousness soon after the fall, he said. Friends and family hiking with the woman helped lead medical personnel to the area.

    A medical helicopter transported the woman to the hospital. Police are investigating what caused her to fall, and warned climbers to always use proper climbing gear.
  12. BobRoss

    BobRoss Make them birds...

  13. BobRoss

    BobRoss Make them birds...

    I was doing a simple down climb a month or so was the only down climb along a 20-ish mile hike so I thought a helmet would be silly. Well, I started down the "little" 10-ish foot down climb. Next thing I know is I hear a super loud "crack" noise and then woke up about 5 or so seconds later. I had a small bump that grew into a fairly large goose egg near the left temple of my head. I finished the hike and then drove home and was soon instructed to go to the ER. The ER Doc confirmed that the loud "crack" I heard was probably the sandstone wall cracking from my hard head. I think he was trying to tell me how stupid I was for not having a helmet on. Little did I know it took two weeks or so to get over the concussion and be back to my somewhat normal self. Lesson learned...kind of peeved due to the concussion, I missed a trip through Imlay.
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  14. Ram


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  15. Kuenn


    Lots of good first-hand testimonials and eye witness reports.

    Quotes worth re-quoting:
    "Nobody needs a helmet until they do." by Batrock" (like that moniker)

    "I indeed remember reading a derogatory piece Chouinard wrote about "crash helmets" which certainly influenced me and a generation of climbers in the mid to late sixties to go helmet-less. It was a transitional time with the helmet wearing "Sierra Club-er's" giving way to bandana wearing hippies. Society was changing as was our tribe." by Charlie D.

    "Chouinard was talking at a time when virtually no one wore seat belts and nearly everyone smoked cigarettes. Well...times change." by donini

    "I'm aware that part of the helmet cert process is a vertical penetration test. The result are these bike style helmets that are light but sit very high on the head." by Ojai Alex
    (Ah yes, the goofy high-hat. And I happen to agree with his sentiment/dislike...even been known to have resewn internal webbing so it sits lower for that very reason. Including the one I predominantly wear today...OSHA come arrest me.)

    Last comment:
    I often refer back to an article by George Will a number of years ago comparing welfare dependency with the introduction of seat-belts in the auto industry. Citing that when seat belts became standard in cars, fatality rates actually increased for a few years following. Conclusion being, when people perceive they are SAFE they are often more reckless.... We need to be careful with that casuistry in our vertical endeavors, as well.
    Stillnoeyeddeer and Ram like this.
  16. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

    Salt Lake City
    From the 1972 Ascent magazine (same issue as Jeff Lowe's article, "East of the Valley, West of the Gunks" which describes the first descents of a couple of canyons in Zion), in an article famously known as "Coonyard Mouths Off":

    Responsibility. I prefer to climb without wearing a hard hat. I won’t argue the safety issue pro or con—it’s just that my head feels freer and more receptive to the good things happening all around when I climb. I believe that the wearing of a crash helmet should be a matter of personal choice. However, in some climbing areas, like Devil’s Tower, Wyoming, it has become governmental policy. The same think is true with solo climbing in some National Parks. We have no one other than ourselves to blame for these restrictive policies. We have allowed the overstressing of the safety aspects of crash helmets in the American Alpine Club Accident Reports, which insurance companies read. It won’t be long before you life insurance will cover you only when wearing a crash helmet. It already applies to motorcycles, to gardeners working along freeways, and to students in climbing schools.

    Related to helmets and other gear, he finishes up the article with:

    Or it could be the start of more spiritual climbing, where we assault the mountains with less equipment and with more awareness, more experience and more courage.
    Yvon Chouinard
    Ascent 1972

    Could be. This came up in another thread on the Supertopo website with regard to a recent fatal rockfall accident on Cathedral Peak in Yosemite's high country. Someone wondered if all those parties of climbers would be stacked up under others if they weren't wearing helmets. (The young woman who was killed by rockfall was wearing a helmet).

    I always ask folks backcountry skiing if they'd go touring without an avalanche beacon...if they say, "heck no"...then, as Bill Engvall says, "here's your sign."

    A quick review of the US climbing rags shows most covers sport folks climbing sans brain buckets.

    Rock and Ice
    245 (Ueli profile shot, no helmet but you wouldn't expect one)
    244 nope
    243 yes...climbing in Zion! Helmet prudent!
    242 yes...alpine climb.
    241 nope
    240 nope
    239 nope (Honold soloing...)
    238-234 nope.

    12 out of the last 18 covers feature climbers without helmets.

    From our friends to the north: Gripped
    2 out of the last 6 (well...its cold in Canada)

    1-2 out of the last dozen or so sans helmet. Those responsible alpine climbers...

    Actually, after reviewing the covers...much more common than it used to be to see climbers wearing helmets.

    Although I think its still a personal decision...I wear a helmet and encourage friends to do so as well. If you show up on a canyon gig without one, I'll still do a canyon with you.

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  17. french_de


    Salt Lake City Utah
    I think this story belongs here....

    This is my very own helmet story.

    At first, I didn't want to tell this story, kept it to myself, almost embarrassed by it...
    my mother still doesn't know. But I think it is so important especially when it comes to wearing a helmet.

    My incident happened as four of us were headed to canyoneer a canyon, we hadn't seen the top of the canyon yet.

    Something like this could happen to anybody I think or at least I have tried to convince myself of that


    February 14th, 2107, 7:30 am. It was a beautiful morning in Death Valley.

    We are about half way up a crumbly ridge, maybe 1000 feet off the canyon floor in the southern Black Mountains,
    a canyon called Cauldron was our destination.

    I had on my 5.10's, long hiking shorts, elbow pads, a very full and heavy pack, gloves, butt pad, camera around my neck and... my helmet.

    We come to a section of rock that requires scrambling on all four. The two above me climb it with ease.
    I'm next with another canyoneer below me and to the left.

    I'm just about over this section of rock when both sections of rock that my hands are grabbing give way.
    At almost the same time the section of rock that my feet are propped on crack and drop down an inch or so.
    I get propelled backward and away from the rock. Now this wouldn't have been too bad because I land on my back (my pack) on the ledge just below
    and should have stopped there but... there must have just enough momentum because I teetered and went over the ledge.
    For the next sixty feet or so I would go over a ledge, fall 6 or 8 feet, land on my head and pack completely up side down, roll head over heels on rock scree, pick up speed and repeat. After the third ledge drop, I was able to get my feet down hill and was able to dig into the rock scree bringing me to a halt just before the next 40 foot drop.

    I sat up, saw stars in my eyes, heard some bells and high pitched ringing and felt the scree rocks that I had knocked loose from above pelt me and my pack. I looked down through the stars in my eyes and blood, everywhere blood. It was flowing from my nose, my head, my knees, my chest..

    My partners climbed down to me, swore a lot and wrapped me up to stem most of the bleeding. Tight knee pads work well on torn open knees to stop bleeding by the way.

    A Brief discussion concluded that we should end our quest of the canyon for that day.

    Wearing a helmet on that climb saved my life. Without it, I would have surely been knocked unconscious and unable to stop myself from rolling down the last 940 feet.
    My helmet sustained 3 puncture wounds from the sharp rock. I hit hard, really hard on my helmet

    It was difficult and painful for me but we were able to walk back down to our vehicle, we had no cell phone service. One of my partners heroically carried my pack.

    I got back to our vehicle and went through 2 packs of wet wipes to get me presentable.

    We drove to a Pahrump, Nevada clinic where the doctors told me they were unable to deal with my injuries so was helicopter flown to a Las Vegas trauma center where they patched me up and where I spent a day and a half in their ICU.

    Crazy place that Las Vegas trauma center!!

    My injuries were numerous but not life threatening. My helmet had been jammed really hard on my head during the fall causing a frontal subdural hematoma. I broke my nose, tore open my forehead, had multiple bruises and cuts on my chest, and sustained a shoulder injury. My knees were hamburger requiring 40 stitches. ( I wish I had worn my knees pads climbing up). The butt pad I was wearing during the fall saved my ass a lot.

    I was black and blue from head to toe and spent a week laying around taking pain and anti seizure meds. Anti seizure meds - what a trip!

    I'm all good now.

    That is my helmet story.

    Moments before the incident



    My knees getting patched up. I think my head would have looked a little like this sans helmet. I hope this isn't too graphic for some!



  18. ratagonia


    Mount Carmel, Utah
    Wow. Thanks to the gods you were wearing your helmet, or we would have heard about this much earlier.
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  19. joeb

    joeb middle aged guy who lies around alot

    Big Island Hawaii
    Wow - thanks for post, glad to see you survived

    As a side note - the bike & tri-athlon groups now are pretty much all helmet wearing. This was not the case twenty years ago. I think Brian in SLC and others are right when pointing out influence of magazines & Ads as you won't see cyclists without helmets anymore in those magazines. Not sure why it is still considered "cool" in the sport climbing world
    Rapterman likes this.
  20. Kuenn


    Very unpriggish of you. :thumbsup: (seems like the right adjective)

    Amazing story!! Yes, heroic of your partner...even much more heroic/tenacious that you were able to exit under your own power....tough nut!

    And yes, it's probably best that Mom doesn't hear about this one. Although, not sure what you're going to say when she asks, "Oh my heck! (I think that's how westerners phrase it) Sweetie? When did you get that 10 inch scar on your leg?"
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