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White Roost warning

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Scott Patterson, Dec 20, 2020.

  1. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

    My son and I did West Fork White Roost yesterday. It appears that someone did the canyon not that long ago, but when I inspected and yanked on the sling for the chockstone anchor for the big rappel, it shifted with only a moderate tug on the sling (this should be a good reminder to always check your anchors; it is scary to think that someone recently used that anchor).

    We tried to arrange the chockstone a little, but it would still move. There wasn't any other anchoring material near the rappel, but we climbed up the previous short drop to find a few rocks for a deadman, There weren't too many rocks available.

    We were going to climb the 40' downclimb to find more rocks, but a thin layer of snow and ice made it impossible to climb (it might melt soon since it just snowed the day before our trip).

    For us the deadman worked, but it isn't that beefy and if it rained or had a freeze thaw cycle, I'd use extreme caution and test/inspect the anchor thoroughly (which you should always do anyway). There are no rocks left at the level of the rappel or the level above it for anchor material.

    My suggestion for anyone doing the canyon in the near future is to toss a few rocks down the 40' downclimb/rappel for better anchor material since we used every single rock (only about three moderate sized ones) available.
    Tumbleweed, Dan H, Ali Miller and 4 others like this.
  2. ratagonia


    Mount Carmel, Utah
    Thanks Scott.
    Scott Patterson likes this.
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