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TR: 20080925 - UT, Warm Springs Canyons

Discussion in 'Archives - Yahoo Canyons Group' started by A.J., Jan 31, 2009.

  1. A.J.

    A.J. Guest

    Hey all,

    Still playing catch up with my photos. Here are some pictures and trip report from a challenging Warm Springs trip from Sept. You can get to it from my website: http://www.adventure-geek.com - under the "Trips" link on the left hand side of the page.

    If you are only interested in this trip, you can go there directly from this link: http://www.adventure-geek.com/Trips/2008/20080925.htm (However, the navigation of the site is designed to go from the main www.adventure-geek.com page.)

    Take care, A.J.
  2. adkramoo

    adkramoo Guest

    --- In Yahoo Canyons Group, "A.J." <aj@...> wrote: > Hey all, > Still playing catch up with my photos. Here are some pictures and trip > report from a challenging Warm Springs trip from Sept. You can get > to it from my website: http://www.adventure-geek.com - under > the "Trips" link on the left hand side of the page. > If you are only interested in this trip, you can go there directly from > this link: > http://www.adventure-geek.com/Trips/2008/20080925.htm
    (However, the navigation of the site is designed to go from the main > www.adventure-geek.com page.) > Take care, > A.J.

    Thank you for the trip down memory lane. Fun canyons of all difficulties. Thanks for rating Glaucoma an X. I think MK was leaning R&#43;/X- and only for the exposed downclimb. I think he under states the difficulty of the place. I agree with most of his ratings. This is an exception. Beware! It has so many upclimbs from stemming, that excellent conditioning is vital. Also appreciate the recommending of bringing water and food through the canyon too. A small pack is a small price to pay for the extra safety it provides, with food, water and harness. I enjoyed your referring to the room that would trap you. I think I called a jail with no need for a jailer. Sometimes you wonder if the things you saw and remembered were as unique as you remember them. You seem to confirm that the answer is yes, in this case. ;-) Very nice TR. Ram
  3. nat_smale

    nat_smale Guest

    Very cool TR, A.J! That's a beautiful area. Glaucoma and Tinnitus sound really great and are near the top of my list.

    Nat

    --- In Yahoo Canyons Group, "A.J." <aj@...> wrote:
    Hey all,
    Still playing catch up with my photos. Here are some pictures and trip > report from a challenging Warm Springs trip from Sept. You can get > to it from my website: http://www.adventure-geek.com - under > the "Trips" link on the left hand side of the page.
    If you are only interested in this trip, you can go there directly from > this link: > http://www.adventure-geek.com/Trips/2008/20080925.htm
    (However, the navigation of the site is designed to go from the main > www.adventure-geek.com page.)
    Take care, > A.J. >
  4. A.J.

    A.J. Guest

    > I think he under states the difficulty of the place. > Beware! It has so many upclimbs from stemming, that > excellent conditioning is vital. > Very nice TR. > Ram

    Thanks Ram, glad you liked the trip report. It definitely sounds like we are on the same page. Lots of work in Glaucoma; for sure...

    > Very cool TR, A.J! That's a beautiful area. Glaucoma and Tinnitus > sound really great and are near the top of my list.

    For the prepared, they are great canyons. For the unprepared, they will be a nightmare...

    I'm sure you'll love them!

    > Nat

    Let me know when you go. If you want company, I'd love to see them again...

    Take care, A.J.


    --- In Yahoo Canyons Group, "A.J." <aj@> wrote:

    Hey all,

    Still playing catch up with my photos. Here are some pictures and trip
    report from a challenging Warm Springs trip from Sept. You can get
    to it from my website: http://www.adventure-geek.com - under
    the "Trips" link on the left hand side of the page.

    If you are only interested in this trip, you can go there directly from
    this link:
    http://www.adventure-geek.com/Trips/2008/20080925.htm
    > (However, the navigation of the site is designed to go from the main
    www.adventure-geek.com page.)

    Take care,
    A.J.
    >
  5. Tom Jones

    Tom Jones Guest

    --- In Yahoo Canyons Group, "A.J." <aj@...> wrote: > NOTE: If you are heading downcanyon from the ascending exit, beware of the first chamber. This is easily one of the most challenging spots in canyons I have encountered. It is a chamber with a flared, tight, negative exit.

    Even with a rope, it took me two tries (and a lot of energy) to get back upcanyon, and it took my buddy Tom four tries. It could very easily keep someone. I wedged a rock that can be used (carried from a different part of the canyon as there was nothing there), but I would back it up with some rock pro or another anchor (you will likely be putting lots of force on it unless you are proficient climbing 5.11 off-widths.) You could use a #2 or #3 BD Camalot C4 or a big bro 3 upcanyon from the chamber (or maybe a combination of them.) We put a LOT of stress on the rope (we used meat anchors), so just make sure it's solid. If you made it through the main canyon, you should be fine with everything down from the chamber to the lake. I'd bring the rock pro and a 40' rope for the chamber, a 45' rope for the rockpile handline (able to be up/downclimbed by strong climbers), and 50' of rope for the final rap/ascend or handline. You can lower that stuff in your exit rap pack.

    (sorry to make you answer in both worlds, but...)

    What do you mean by a "negative exit"?
  6. adkramoo

    adkramoo Guest

    --- In Yahoo Canyons Group, "Tom Jones" <ratagonia@...> wrote: > --- In Yahoo Canyons Group, "A.J." <aj@> wrote:
    > NOTE: If you are heading downcanyon from the ascending exit, beware > of the first chamber. This is easily one of the most challenging > spots in canyons I have encountered. It is a chamber with a flared, > tight, negative exit.
    Even with a rope, it took me two tries (and a lot of energy) to get > back upcanyon, and it took my buddy Tom four tries. It could very > easily keep someone.
    What do you mean by a "negative exit"?

    Aaron is entertaining guests, but wanted me to say that it was a spot where the walls narrowed and slanted inward, the higher you get toward the lip, forcing you out to a more exposed positions just as the climbing became hardest. This from TR. First part the scout, the 2nd part the descent a day later.

    From the Scout....Aaron wants to look down canyon. He reaches a spot that he doesn't want to reverse, if he went down it. That's saying something. Trust me! But, but, but just around the corner and out of sight he senses the place changing. To what? Oh how he wants to go. How he wants to know. And when will he be able to return, with school responsibilities? And the logistics of the lower canyon haven't been solved. Go down there and there is no way back up unless you have a boat or can swim 10 miles or so. And from down there, is there any reasonable way back up, from anywhere close by? Perhaps, but probably not. Another day or two and better resources are needed for that secret to be revealed. Reluctantly ... and responsibly, he turns around and jugs out. Sooooo close.

    From the Descent.....The rim team switches sides and lets us know we are swallowing distance fast. And there it is. A single rope laying down the side of the cliff. A lifeline in the truest sense. Ah but Aaron has other plans. He has recruited Landon to accompany him to his low point from the day before. "Landon, you stay here, I'll be back," ... and he is down the hard spot that he feared trying to reverse yesterday. Landon waits with the rope. <snip> It takes quite a while, but the boys return. The upclimb he feared, was in fact hard 5.10 and he was thrilled to have a belay. He reports wonders from the lower part of the canyon.

    http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/canyontales/ram/?i=fears#dreams R
  7. A.J.

    A.J. Guest

    > NOTE: If you are heading downcanyon from the ascending exit, > beware of the first chamber. This is easily one of the most > challenging spots in canyons I have encountered. It is a chamber > with a flared, tight, negative exit.
    Even with a rope, it took me two tries (and a lot of energy) to > get back upcanyon, and it took my buddy Tom four tries. It could > very easily keep someone...

    > (sorry to make you answer in both worlds, but...)
    What do you mean by a "negative exit"? > No worries. I'll give the same answer...

    Negative = Overhung; negative slope/angle; flares back out at you; pain in the arse. ;)
  8. A.J.

    A.J. Guest

    > ... The upclimb he feared, was in fact hard > 5.10 and he was thrilled to have a belay. He reports wonders from the > lower part of the canyon.
    http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/canyontales/ram/?i=fears#dreams
    R

    I put it at 5.11 as I've been able to do 5.10's before. This one, I couldn't do without aid of the rope. However, it could be that it's really a 5.10 and gravity just got stronger for me... ;)

    Basically, it's hard.

    Take care, A.J.
  9. adkramoo

    adkramoo Guest

    --- In Yahoo Canyons Group, "A.J." <aj@...> wrote:
    ... The upclimb he feared, was in fact hard
    5.10 and he was thrilled to have a belay. He reports wonders from the
    lower part of the canyon.

    http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/canyontales/ram/?i=fears#dreams
    > R
    I put it at 5.11 as I've been able to do 5.10's before. This one, I > couldn't do without aid of the rope. However, it could be that it's > really a 5.10 and gravity just got stronger for me... ;) > Basically, it's hard. > Take care, > A.J.

    Now Aaron is studying for a calculus test. His commentary from the other room...

    "Very possibly 5.11. I could see it being harder for AJ, being that I had to fit in a really tight spot, to reach the key handhold. He has got it right either way. The thing is plain hard. Really hard." Aaron
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