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"The Squeeze" challenges

Discussion in 'Utah' started by Tricam, Sep 17, 2020.

  1. Tricam

    Tricam

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    What are the technical challenges in The Squeeze that make it technical class 4?

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    I'm finalizing plans for spending next month in Utah and have about 15 class 3 canyons lined up. If all goes well, I would like to get into a class 4 canyon on this trip, particularly one with pothole escapes, and it looks like this may be on the "softer" side for a canyon of this variety (given its bolting), while having at least one keeper.

    I seem to have a chicken and the egg problem with pothole escapes - you want experience with them before getting into a class 4, but pothole escapes make a canyon rated class 4.

    I'm comfortable getting in over my head as far as problem solving and having a long, grueling, miserable time, but I'm looking to be as prepared as possible and minimize surprise technical challenges. I don't care about ruining the beta, so I'll gladly take any advice - either in what to expect, or reasons why I should reconsider this canyon :)
    Last edited: Sep 17, 2020
  2. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    I know that there are fewer and fewer bolts in there with each passing year. So natural anchor/ghosting skills are good to have in there as well. Hopefully this canyon will be bolt free one day.
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  3. Tricam

    Tricam

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    Thanks @Bootboy !!

    Do you happen to know if there are any requisite sandtrap anchors? That is one technique and tool that I definitely won't have. I guess if I find myself in that situation, there's a good chance for a deadman's or potshot/pack anchors, but I'd want to be prepared going in if this is expected - and avoid knowingly putting myself in a situation where bolting would be my only escape option :)
  4. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    There is one small, not too deep pothole in The Squeeze. And there is one big, deep pothole which is fairly tricky. I suggest Quandary Direct as a better choice for first pothole canyon. However, a SandTrap is the best choice for the first "Direct" rappel, though you can also move a big rock down and bury it... Assuming dry conditions, which is what I think it is now.

    A good learning SandTrap canyon is No Kidding in North Wash, best done under the watchful eye of an experienced Trapper. The same concept applies to pothole escapes - best learned in a mentorship situation.

    North Wash this fall. Might be nuts!
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  5. Tricam

    Tricam

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    Thanks Tom! I hadn't looked into Quandary Direct, but it seems like a great alternative. Assuming it remains dry, this will likely be our choice. Super convenient that it is in the same area and has similar challenges, with a bit less committing time scale.
  6. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    Interesting. I always thought the potholes in Squeeze were easier than the ones in Quandary Direct, but the last time I did Squeeze everything was bolted up.

    I remember Squeeze as being much longer, more strenuous, and with a lot more rappels than Quandary, but the potholes were easier (even with low water conditions). I haven't done Squeeze for a very long time though. I assume it has to do more with bold removal than big (natural) changes in the canyon.
  7. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    The potholes in QD yield easily to potshot throws.

    Tom
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