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The Breaking Machine

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Canyon Monkey, Dec 14, 2017.

  1. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Uh, well...

    All knots reduce the strength of a rope by between 25% and 50%. The EDK (stacked) may be slightly worse in this way than other bends, but it is difficult to see significance in this.

    The risk of rolling (or, perhaps, the characteristics of rolling) have not been well-explained to the climbing and canyoneering community, but is quite a bit more complex than just running a few tests.

    If there is a problem identified in either of these domains that is not solved by a simple method, such as using a stacked EDK rather than a single EDK, then novel solutions to the identified problem would be a reasonable place to spend some testing-machine energy.

    Tom
  2. Canyon Monkey

    Canyon Monkey Useful Idiot

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    Sure, I will PM you my address
  3. Sonny Lawrence

    Sonny Lawrence

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    Here is some info.

    Attached Files:

    Rapterman likes this.
  4. Rapterman

    Rapterman

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    Hi Sonny, that is a nicely written/designed test.
    I would like to see it applied to several brands and diameters of canyon rope- could this could affect results?
    One of the considerations for EDK knot selection is the ability to inspect/confirm that the knot is CORRECTLY tied.
    In this respect I think the stacked overhand is the winner. All of the other versions could be confusing to
    the masses (and me!)
    :)
  5. Sonny Lawrence

    Sonny Lawrence

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    I agree with your comments. From the testing in the article, the double overhand theoretically would be the best choice. However, a friend tells me it can be very difficult to untie after being loaded. I have not tried it.
  6. Rapterman

    Rapterman

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    "stacked overhand" is just an overhand tied on top of another overhand (EDK x 2).
    Just as easy to untie as a single overhand/EDK.
    DOUBLE OVERHAND as the test shows it does look like it could be a hard to untie after use!
  7. CRNPRES

    CRNPRES

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    I typically do an EDK then an inline figure 8 vs a double EDK to join 2 ropes. The EDK is the knot against the anchor and the inline figure 8 is the “back up” in place of the second EDK
    Last edited: Feb 3, 2018
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