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Stone Knot, Fiddlesticks, and the Angles

Discussion in 'Tech Tips and Gear' started by pyle762, Jan 25, 2019.

  1. pyle762


    I am wondering about the effects of angles on a stone knot and a toggle. I did a canyon recently where we rap'ed off a small rock horn. The drop was pretty quick after the anchor so extending the fiddlestick was not really that good of an option. To rig the toggle it would have had to have been tied close to the rock with a the rope at a pretty wide angle...I would estimate at probably 140 degrees or so. That is a big no-no with climbing anchors. Does the same principle apply to rope and stone knots?

    Instead of a fiddle stick, we rigged a retrievable anchor.
    Austin Farnworth likes this.
  2. ratagonia


    Mount Carmel, Utah
    You are right to be concerned. While the increased tension in the rope due to vector addition is not a concern, we really do not know how a significant angle affects the stone knot and the toggle. Once I get my testing machine up and running, it is an area to explore.

    Thank you for choosing a different anchor solution .

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