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Sphinx Cyn - Robbers Roost

Discussion in 'Utah' started by ratagonia, Apr 26, 2013.

  1. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Location:
    Mount Carmel, Utah
    Looks intriguing, Sam. What did you do for the last rap anchor, then?

    Tom
  2. Sam G

    Sam G

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    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    Tom,
    We used a human anchor. There was a spot just before the lip where one person can really hunker down and get their hips nestled into the bottom of the slot. It wasn't as uncomfortable as it sounds and it gave us the added bonus of being able to "creep" the rope by scooting our butt forward an inch or so if we noticed the sheath getting more abrasion than we were comfortable with.
    The drop is only 180' and it may not merit the technical rating of 4 that I gave it. But given that it's almost all free rappel and material may be scarce, I figured a rating of 4 might be appropriate. I'm not too sure though, I'd definitely appreciate some feedback on the rating if you(or anyone else reading this) ever make it there.
    Sam
    lostlandscapes and Dan Ransom like this.
  3. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    And then?

    Seems like there is more to the story. Is that one person still there?

    Also, how experienced are you at getting anchors? A Four Rating is a bit unusual.

    Tom
  4. Dan Ransom

    Dan Ransom Staff Member

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    Location:
    Salt Lake
    lostlandscapes likes this.
  5. Sam G

    Sam G

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    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    I don't remember the exact sequence but I think we sent two people down, then one person jugged back up and took over as meat anchor while the previous anchorman went down and then both people came back up and we all gave high fives.

    I've been known to get an anchor or two :D... kidding. How experienced am I? I guess it's all relative, I'm not nearly as experienced as you. I've set a buncha chockstone/deadman/cairn/meat anchors and played around a bit with macrames/flake hooks/cobble/Potshot anchors and such. I definitely wouldn't say I'm experienced, as I haven't been doing this for all that long, but I'm trying.
    If you're asking if the reason for the meat anchor was because we felt it was more secure than other anchor options then the answer is yes, it just seemed easiest and safest to us at the time.... although I guess in hindsight we could have set an anchor and backed it up with a human. That way if anything went wrong on rappel the person who was up top would be free to make moves and save the day instead of being tied to the rappel rope.
  6. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Location:
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    Ah yes, sorry I forgot.

    I was hoping to get to Sphinx this spring, but the group was interested in the classics. I hope to get to it this fall. Seems like one can go out as for Mind Bender, though of course, that will be a LOT of hiking. The good news is that the car spot is pretty short.

    Tom
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