Simple Canyon Ascending Setup and Technique

Tom's Basic Canyon Rope Ascending Setup

Good for the usual unplanned ascending in canyons. Not good in waterfalls, not good for free-hanging ropes. Small and light 'kit', easily set up.

I have a simple system that works well for short climbs when canyoneering. It is not so good on a free hanging rope, or for long ascents, though I have used it on a 155'er, in the full sun, in July. On Tiblocs. On a uncooperative BW Canyon pro rope...

A. Tools:
A1. Upper Device: Petzl Basic, Croll, Tibloc maybe, Bachman Knot if needed, handled ascender if planned. Note that I tend to grasp the rope with my right hand atop the device (when stepping up).
A2. Lower Device: A progress capture device as close to the harness as possible. I like a Micro Traxion or a Nano Traxion, but there are other devices that work. The left hand grasps the rope just above the lower device when stepping up.
A3. Foot Loop: the foot loop is 2-1/2 over-the-shoulder slings which seems to be a good length for median men... or humans 5'8" to 6'0". The length can be made longer by adding carabiners at the top. It can be made shorter by using 2 slings and then adding carabiners at the top to get the right length.
A4. Clip your safety leash into the sling from the Upper Device. This is a backup - it is a good idea to be securely clipped into BOTH Devices. Your backup clip on the upper device needs to not interfere with other functions, so it should never come tight. (It is there in case your lower device slips).

B. The Sequence:
B1. Set yourself up on the rope, with the rope to the left side (non-dominant side).
B2. Move the upper device up to almost full extension. Grasp the top of the device or the rope over the top of the device. This must not be at full extension. (Your arm is less strong at full extension.)
B3. Step up and put your foot in the foot loop. When you do this, your thigh should be no higher than level with the ground. If your knee is higher than your thigh, you are over-stepping which is biomechanically inefficient (your leg is not strong above half way). If your knee is lower than your thigh, then your steps will be short which is inefficient in the other direction. (This can be adjusted by how high you move the upper device on each stroke).
B4. Prep for Stepping Up, first time. Pull rope through the Lower Device until it is tight. Before standing up, move your left hand down until it is against the lower device and grasp the rope tightly.
B5. The Step Up: you will do several things simultaneously: a. stand up with your right leg; b. pull up with your right hand; c. raise your left hand, pulling rope through the progress capture device until it is tight.
B6. Relax. Relax onto the Lower Device, without losing significant height. Breath.

Start the cycle again, starting with B2.

Comments: When you stand up, it is important to have your foot under you so you move UP the rope. If you just push with your leg, your leg will go out in front of you and you will not have moved up. If you have a wall to work with, this is usually not a problem. If the rope is freehanging, it can be challenging to make consistent progress upward.

It is possible to use both feet. Usually best if you add another sling so your feet are spread a bit for balance. In general I use my right leg to move upward and my left foot against the wall for stability.

This does require some strength, but most of the climbing is done with your right leg. This is mostly a coordination problem, and practice practice practice until the action is "in your body" and does not require thinking.

Tom

Exactly. This is essentially what I use, though I own/use an upper Petzl handed ascender, and I'm a lefty...so reverse all this Thanks for throwing this post out, ascending isn't THAT bad with some practice!

This is a great write up Tom, I use essentially the same set up in most situations.

As an added opinion, its not a bad idea to clip a personal "clip-in" anchor/sling to the upper ascender as a secondary attachment to the rope.

Oops... yeah, I left that out. UPDATED.

Your bicep might much appreciate pulling down on the trailing side of the rope...



A redirect through a biner (or even better, a biner with a built-in pulley) is super sweet. Nearly to the point that if it's not steep, you don't even need a foot stirrup.

You could also use the top hole of your ascender for the redirect (more throw). Also, a bit more secure.



Here a version with a tibloc:



Has a nice foot wrap tossed in for fun.

In both the above, you could replace the Gri Gri with a progress capture pulley.

I've tried that (with a carabiner) and found it less workable for 2 reasons:

A. the weight of the trailing rope is then resting on the upper device, with a 2:1 DISadvantage, so when you move the upper device upward, you do so against twice the weight of the trailing rope. Moving the upper device upward is done using a biomechanically weak motion.

2a. the way I show it, the motion to pull the rope through the progress capture uses the full length of the motion, the same weak motion as above. I know this because if I do not move my hand next to the progress capture, then it takes two strokes to pull the rope through, which is inefficient. (This motion also involves lifting the trailing weight of the rope - which can be problematic).

2b. the way you show it, pullied through, the stroke is twice as long and will definitely take two strokes. Again, a 2:1 DISadvantage. You not only need to pull through rope to account for the step up, but also the same distance for moving closer to the re-direct. However, the motion is a strong motion, and this might be advantageous in free-hanging terrain, where more work is done by bicep pull-downs. (This method encourages taking half-length strokes, which can be biomechanically more efficient, especially on free-hanging ropes).

I would encourage people to try both versions, and see what works for them. However, in training there might be very little rope weight when used on short ascents which would skew the results.

In a rescue / support / assist scenario, the redirect might allow a person at the bottom to provide significant assistance to a person climbing the rope.

Tom

NICE!
Exactly what I use (who knew?)
So well written... can you now show the 'full montey' by demonstrating the sequence
Rappel,
Lock off,
Ascend.
We consider that a basic skill but it can get folks flustered.
That would be sweet!

Climbing yesterday...location was optimal for a short practice session. I rigged a bunch of different methods. One I was hoping I'd like was on a double strand, using an ATC in guide mode as the progress capture at my waist. Ugh. Maybe my old fat climbing rope just wasn't optimal but ascending was difficult to the point of no fun. I'll have to drag along a canyon specific rope next time, also an ATS which has that double slot.

Then rigged with the micro traxion (what an awesome tool). Used my 7mm BW VT Prusik but I also carry a smaller diameter Prusik cord too...(didn't deploy). Played around with different wraps from VT to standard Prusik to asymmetric Prusik. Wished I'd tried an autoblock...next time.

The BW VT almost grips too well....seems like less grippy Prusik cords are easier to slide up a rope. Still...

Anyhow, the wall we played on, with a handy short anchor (Reservoir Ridge for folks in the SLC area), was just less than vertical. Foot loop and pull through the micro traxion worked "ok" but a re-direct was super easy to the point no foot loop was need to progress upwards fairly quickly. Very easy to transition from one method to the other.

And yeah, a short distance to the anchor makes a big difference. Steepness too.

Jen had never ascended a rope. She tried both methods. This one made her smile:



Ha ha. Also made her want to learn more, which, is a good thing.

I tried the VT Prusik as an adjustable tether with the micro traxion. Worked well. Another trick that might be useful someday.

A micro traxion has pretty aggressive teeth. Can be hard to get off the rope especially if you over travel and bump into an anchor or knot. And, there's no reverse mode like a Gri Gri. Something I try to be mindful of.

Have always through a Gri Gri crossed with a pulley would be a pretty useful device. I think Ushba made a wall hauler that the load could slowly be released but it was never rated for human use.

Anyone tried one of these?

CRIC | Climbing Technology

Cheers!

CRIC video...hmmm...

The CT Cric just became available from US retailers. Got one in transit, I think it could be quite the versatile tool for canyon rescue. From the promotional video the only thing I don't like is that the toothed cam doesn't seem to have a lock out function (like a Microtrax, Basic, etc), and that it may more difficult to use the little cam pull rope one handed. Nonetheless the advantages could out weigh these negatives. I'll update after I can play around with it.

The pulley is kind of isolated from the cam so maybe negates the need for a lockout? That you can pull the cam off the rope (I note the upward motion prior to release the teeth) makes it pretty nifty.

Yeah, I see a local retailer has a few in stock. Hmm.

Bit heavier. Croll, Basic and Micro Traxion are 85g. This rig is 140g-ish.

Interesting.

Your experience might be different, but i've practiced this a bunch and find about 50% more effort is spent than if rigged to stand up on the lower device.

Not bragging here, just sharing observations learned from time spent...

I have a fair amount of experience with ascending rope over the years. Caver-Canyoneers have an advantage you might say, most vertical caves are not pull-downs. You either hone the ascending skill/technique or you stay away from vertical caves. So there's that for resume' dropping.

My 2 cents...keeping in mind the topic is "simple ascending method".

1. Minimize unnecessary effort (moving up a rope and defying gravity is effort enough). Find a system that works for you, and is not just a bragging point on how "light" it is. You can keep it simple and functional without a lot of weight.
2. Having a seat harness that reaches center of gravity/balance point for you is key - especially if it's a long ascent
3. From the video @Brian in SLC shared "Ascending on Rope with GriGri and Petzl Ascension" don't underestimate the added value that comes from it not being a free hanging ascent. Even with just a toe touching rock face, will provide a ton of stability and significantly improve the efficiency of an ascent, especially in terms of effort. (Why? Because it orients your body vertical...I'm going to stress this point ad nauseam until the horse is dead.) Free hanging ascends are more difficult, depending on how good you are with achieving #2 can be a game changer.
   • For further reference watch this vid: She demonstrates several ideas for ascending - you be the judge on efficiency - but the orientation of her body @ 3:44 is not sustainable. She's will most certainly waste away if ascending more than 20' with that configuration....IMO (?? she's not vertical to the rope.)
4. From the 2nd video @Brian in SLC shared, a foot sling is a must! That pulling rope techniqe to raise your body is BS. I don't care what the mechanical advantage ratio is. There are much better methods. Your leg muscles are bigger than your biceps...unless you're Popeye the Sailor.
5. Ascend vertically, as much as possible (reinforcing the last comment in #3...). On planned ascents we will often ascend tandum (not suggesting this for canyon ascents, just illustrating a point). In a tandum ascent the weight of the bottom person will vertically standup the top person (yet another post mortem horse reference). This is when you really grasp the advantage that comes from being oriented vertically with your chosen ascending method. (Shown here at 1:05. Top person has an advantage due to the weighting of the bottom person. http://canyoncollective.com/threads/riding-shadows.19123/ )

Practice your chosen method from a tree limb at the park. Vertical practice can be a lot of fun with your peeps and the spectators will be amused.

Wait... this video is not part of the NOT series?

Edited for clarification.
Some of her variations are good, and then some aren’t.

Two comments on the video thumbnail:
1. Her body position demonstrates why the chest ascender is used in intentional ascending scenarios. How long will your grip last in the left hand before your hand is a limp noodle from exertion? The left hand is needed to "straighten" the body parallel with the rope.
2. Same for the right hand. This "mechanical advantage" ascending system portrayed here is requiring her to get a death grip on the tail.

For me, it has been sustainable. I've done near full vertical rope lengths with the "deucy" method (I think what the wall climbing kids call it). I find it more sustainable and efficient for me (especially given a touch of bicep tendonitis). I dunno...for some reason, leaning back like she does in the video, is somehow relaxing to me. I guess its just a method I've kind of settled into.

And, you're right...even a slight toe tap on the wall makes ascending much, much easier. If its at all much less than vertical, I really don't need a foot loop especially with a traxion at the waist and a pulley redirect on top.

Grip on either hand turning into a limp noodle? She's a climber. Not an issue. Ha ha. You don't need a "death grip" to pull a trailing rope through a gri gri or traxion. Weight of the rope helps if you're up high. But...it just takes (at least me) nearly no effort. Left hand doesn't exert to maintain position...you can straighten out with an open palm...it's just a body position thing.

Good comments, though!

There's no doubt if you have a system for caving and ascending after a pit drop, you're going to be pretty dialed with that system. The canyoneer cavers who can convert to ascend that I've watched in the canyon environment (Sonny for instance) have their system ready to snap right into. Efficient. But...

Either climbing or dry (or wet even) canyons usually don't have an ascent situation planned. So, knowing how to deploy gear you have with you and climbers that are just free climbing especially won't have a double set of purpose built ascenders (Petzl Croll and/or a Basic) with them. Nor do a lot of canyoneers. Maybe they (we...ha ha) should.

More vertical practice for sure! Geez, I need to keep the toolbox pretty small though...

Fun channel...some interesting info.

I'll have to admit to TR soloing a bit with a micro traxion. Good takeaways from this video (keep the rope snug nearer to the anchor).