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Tech Tip: Question Reducing spin

Discussion in 'Tech Tips and Gear' started by Mountaineer, Aug 23, 2013.

  1. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    Mixed bag there for sure. Some of the routes are VERY hard for the grade, some easy. In the original guidebook, there was a 5.8 mantle route on King on the Throne, for instance. It's been up graded to 5.12a...

    And, gym climbing is an interesting gage of "things". At the higher levels, on the steep sport climbs at the City, gym climbing and ratings really do cross over well. You can climb 5.11 in the gym, you'll fair well on She's the Bosch for instance.

    But, at the lower grades, especially given the style of climbing, gym v City of Rocks doesn't translate well. So much more subtle foot intensive movement than steep jugs. With the exception of a few of KP's super popular routes, most routes are under bolted or require a fair bit of gear to safely protect, or, aren't safely protected.

    This month's Climbing magazine has fun article about the City. Worth a read if you like the area. I even have a few off the radar route selections listed...(Reach the Sky used to be 5.9...soft grades...ha ha).
    hank moon likes this.
  2. hank moon

    hank moon kinetically bulbous

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    Yeah, I s'pose that could be so...especially given the Tony Calderone influence...which I haven't experienced much firsthand 'cuz I climb in the sub-5.11 range only (with 5.10 on TR only :). So I mostly climb stuff in the 5.6 - 5.9 range and in that category I have found the ratings at COR to be universally soft as compared with the same range at the Gunks or LCC. Interesting that you perceive some to be very hard for the grade, though the 5.8 to 5.12 upgrade example sounds super anomalous.
  3. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    5.12+ sport in Echo or AF canyon, no big deal. 5.8 off width in LCC, forget it.
    Joshua tree is the same way. The 5.7 routes in J tree are scary and way hard for the grade.
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