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Order of the Marginal Anchors

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Bootboy, Oct 16, 2014.

  1. EvergreenDean

    EvergreenDean OK with what happens

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    kmanz and Jenny like this.
  2. Moab Mark

    Moab Mark

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    The dew 2 r w as4rts6 too
  3. Canyonero

    Canyonero

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    Good point. Time I suppose. Same reason I didn't take a picture. You have to sacrifice something to eat lunch at noon...in Springdale....after doing Heaps. :)

    But it wouldn't have taken that long to wait for the second guy. We still could have eaten at 12:02. But it was only a 10 foot slide, into a pool that turned out to be a swimmer. And I wanted to try it. I'm actually a much bigger fan of meat after our September trip than before. Surprisingly bomber stuff.
  4. Deagol

    Deagol too many hobbies

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    This was the first rap in Arscenic, it was a fat dynamic rope that was left there... look at the knot. PB081651.JPG
  5. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Can't really see it, could you give us a larger version?

    Those canyons frequently have a lot of suspect anchoring in place.

    Tom
  6. Deagol

    Deagol too many hobbies

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  7. gajslk

    gajslk

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    Looks like a bowline. Maybe a double. It's hard to make out.

    Gordon
  8. Deagol

    Deagol too many hobbies

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    I don't remember exactly what type of knot it was, but it came out so easy that it seemed very dangerous. I retied it into a figure 8 with backup. The line was dynamic also, so it was way too bouncy...
  9. gajslk

    gajslk

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    I used to use a double bowline when I lead climbed in the gym. The ropes there were quite soft and a figure-8 would lock down and be hard to untie after a fall. The double bowline was always easy to untie. If you ever use one, back it up the way it was backed up in your picture, they can work loose.

    Gordon
  10. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    I always lead climb on a bowline with a Yosemite finish. Way easier to untie after taking numerous falls working a sport climb.
  11. Otis

    Otis

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    Did Arsenic in March 2014. I don't remember what webbing was there, and I didn't add any. I realize the issue in this pic isn't with the anchor. Seems to me that people add more webbing to the first drop unnecessarily(not just this canyon) then go through with a single anchor on every other drop. Confidence builder? That's a shitty knot to leave laying around
  12. Deagol

    Deagol too many hobbies

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    PB091684.JPG we were at Poison Springs this past weekend and did the 3 canyons... almost every drop had a webbing rat's nest with all sorts of loud colors, multiple knots with extra short lengths someone added to extend the rappels... Here is an example
  13. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Yup!

    Hope you had a chance to clean up at least a part of that.

    Tom
  14. Kuenn

    Kuenn

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    Not that it really matters...but it piqued my interest.

    I don't believe it is a double or Yosemite bowline due to the direction of the standing vs the working end. And I didn't think it was a standard bowline at first, but after attempting to duplicate it, I believe it is. Hard to duplicate exactly - because I don't own a piece of dynamic rope. ;)

    Best view
    upload_2014-11-12_11-59-38.

    Side view - similar to picture
    upload_2014-11-12_11-59-58.

    Original
    upload_2014-11-12_12-5-34.
  15. Deagol

    Deagol too many hobbies

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    wow, Kuenn, nice work.
  16. Wes1

    Wes1

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    [​IMG]


    Wes
    Jenny, ratagonia and Bootboy like this.
  17. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Nice!

    Ever the Critic, I have to add:

    1. Presumably the photographer provided a backup before the rappeller actually committed to the anchor, correct?

    2. I know people put those big rocks there against the other rock to "hold the rope in place", but it rarely seems like these have any value other than psychological.

    Tom :moses:
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  18. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    tab08.

    This bush ain't so bad, but several other much much smaller bushes also had slings on em. :moses:
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  19. skeeter

    skeeter A holed piston is just an ashtray

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    I like how many slings they added, as if the webbing would be the fail point. I've seen some frightening veggie raps in the alpine. This might take the cake.
  20. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    I'd rap off that - it has some bulk to it. But... One thing about "bushes" is that they have shallow, spreading root structures, which means not a whole lot of strength.

    Story about that: http://www.math.utah.edu/~sfolias/canyontales/tale/?i=snifftest

    T
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