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Order of the Marginal Anchors

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Bootboy, Oct 16, 2014.

  1. hank moon

    hank moon lovely ligatures

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  2. Mike Zampino

    Mike Zampino Canyon season never ends.

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  3. Yellow Dart

    Yellow Dart It's only hubris if I fail.

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    17211869_843005868036_6686830720135369492_o.
    We were told we were only the third group to ever go through (second group was day before); amount of sun weathering means it was Swaney's, which means it's bomb enough for us.

    Fossil Snail Canyon
    Death Valley
    Aquaman and ratagonia like this.
  4. skeeter

    skeeter A holed piston is just an ashtray

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    That's totally a Swaney.
  5. Tom Collins

    Tom Collins

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  6. Yellow Dart

    Yellow Dart It's only hubris if I fail.

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    It was during the DV Awesomeness winter event that everyone bailed on because of rain. Meta on the file says February 19th.
    Amazing canyon, surreal, tens of thousands of fossils in the walls and on the canyon floor. And even a few live ones.
    17212067_843005952866_7626062647452247371_o.
    One in the wall, one that fell out the wall, and one walking across his bygone ancestor.
  7. Tom Collins

    Tom Collins

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    I was part of the group that went through the day before you, I was just checking to make sure. Its a great canyon, we even had some flow (very minor) when we did it. That was probably my favorite trip to DV (I have a whopping total of 3 trips).
  8. Yellow Dart

    Yellow Dart It's only hubris if I fail.

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    DSC01752.JPG
    Monkey fist in a flakey crack in Spry, 100' off the deck.
    I liked it; my partner refused. Some people just can't hang...
  9. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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  10. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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  11. hank moon

    hank moon lovely ligatures

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  12. pyle762

    pyle762

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    I rap'ed off of that last week..lol
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  13. Tirrus

    Tirrus Rope rider.

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    93C28513-C3D8-4F13-82AE-C2DFF7CC657F. For a 10ft established down climb, this seemed a bit unorthodox, and illegally placed (TOTGA). #Paracord?

    Let’s play spot the not...
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  14. Aquaman

    Aquaman

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    Not canyoneering, but extremely marginal!

    [​IMG]

    Full video and interview here: http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/hansjorg-auer-scary-risky-rappel-video-interview.html

    This could probably also be considered an accident/near miss, so I think it's okay to note some takeaways: Even though this climber was among the best in the world, he could have avoided this situation if he A. wasn't alone, B. carried more adequate emergency bail gear, or C. was more careful about knowing the planned route.
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018
  15. Aquaman

    Aquaman

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    Ha, at least it's not just braided paracord, it's kern-mantle anatomy. It doesn't strike me as super dangerous or especially marginal, just really weird and unnecessary!

    Most weirdly: why the hell is the cord slung onto the bolt between the rock and a washer? No hanger, wtf?

    Let me get back to you on "spot the knot" with an edit after I get home. I have some pull cord that looks a lot like this, ideal for trying to replicate those knots. Just eyeballing it, the left knot looks like a water knot, the right knot looks like it starts as an EDK and then goes way off the rails. It may actually be a proper EDK and the angle is just weird.

    The water knot makes no sense because this isn't tubular webbing. The EDK is a fine bend, but in this application there isn't isn't a real benefit to it. I find it hilarious that there are two pieces of cord here, but the tails are long enough to suggest one piece bended to itself with a flemish bend or EDK was an option. This of course is with the assumption that this anchor had to exist and there was no webbing or legit rope available, which wasn't/isn't the case here (at least in regard to this anchor's necessity).
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2018
  16. hank moon

    hank moon lovely ligatures

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    The cord appears to be Beal 5mm 100% Dyneema, and the anchor style a (ghetto) variation on the current French-style exploration grade lightweight bolt anchor. Doesn't seem to be marginal for the application (whatever the reason for its existence).

    D.A.
    Aquaman likes this.
  17. Tirrus

    Tirrus Rope rider.

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    We went into TOTGA yesterday 6/25, and pulled this anchor out. Once removed from the rock, I was surprised to see the bolt appeared to be similar to a concrete screw. The cord was also simply trapped between the rock and the washer, and not wrapped around the screw.


    Bolt.JPG
  18. Aquaman

    Aquaman

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    That's what it looked like to me, which seems totally bizarre.
  19. GravityWins

    GravityWins

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    If that's the new standard bolt then I just discovered that I too own a bolt kit. I can't wait to start improving every downclimb! </sarcasm> Honestly how can anyone believe that screws designed for 2000psi hardend concrete are in anyway suited for sandstone? Thanks for pulling it out.
  20. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    With an over-sized hole and a little epoxy, those actually make remarkably good glue-ins that are easily removed. I'm certainly not advocating their use however.
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