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Optimum canyoneering bolt anchor??

Discussion in 'Archives - Yahoo Canyons Group' started by brian_in_slc@my-Deja.com, Jun 26, 2000.

  1. Was curious what the evil folk are using as the optimum in canyoneering bolt anchors.

    For emergency use:

    I'd think nothing shorter than a 3/8" 2.5" rawl five piece in sandstone with a hanger and webbing as a minimum? Baby angles?

    For permanent (replacement of cruddy old bolts or for when you've space out bringing your 6000 foot static line and 600 feet of webbing to take advantage of the natural anchors):

    I like the Petzl Coudee (a caving hanger similar to the Pika wall hanger) with a 5/16" rapid link and a 3.5" 3/8" rawl drive bolt. I'm not a huge fan of the glue-in rings for a couple of reasons. Most one piece glue-in shaft/hangers don't orient the rope to take advantage of a replaceable rapid link (in high traffic areas, might be nice to use a replaceable situation...). The glue tends to have a fairly short shelf life and if one of them buggers busts in my bolt kit, I'll have an ugly sicheeashun on my hands. Also, if some "trad" canyoneer who can easily downclimb 5.11c offwidth wants to remove yer purty bolt, those glue-ins have to be a bit of a pain.

    Thoughts??

    Brian in SLC
  2. canyonz

    canyonz Guest

    Bolting: How 'bout stainless steel marine threaded rods, 12mm thick or more and as long as you want. Glued in and allows replacement of bolt bracket/plate.

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  3. Rich Carlson

    Rich Carlson Guest

    Brian,

    I'm not sure if I am one of the evil folks, but I am going to respond anyway.

    I am not a fan of 2.5" Rawls in sandstone, but since you qualified it as being for emergency use - sure. But will you return another day to replace them with a permanent anchor?

    For permanent anchors I prefer the Petzl glue-ins. You are correct that a replaceable rapid link to reduce wear on the eyebolt is a good idea. If you connect a rapide to one eyebolt it will be oriented to cause the rope to rub against the rock. But if you use two eyebolts connected with chain to form a "V" this is not a problem. You can connect the rapide to the appropriate chain link to provide correct (perpendicular to the rock) orientation.

    I don't like the capsule glues. Instead I use a Hilti glue gun. It looks like a caulking gun and uses "sausage pack" glue and hardener. A bit bulky to carry around, but worth it when I am planning to set permanent anchors. Hilti claims the glue tests at over 10,000 pounds, so my purty bolts are a pain to pull.

    Rich
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