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Mt''s of Zion- Spry, Twin Brother and Mt. of the Sun

Discussion in 'Archives - Yahoo Canyons Group' started by adkramoo, Sep 28, 2005.

  1. adkramoo

    adkramoo Guest

    I just gave beta on these to the Zion site. I am posting over here for Brian Cabester and the Emperor, as I know they have a flavor for this such fun

    > As for Mt. Spry, I'm mainly interested in summit routes. I'm much > more of a peakbagger than a trad climber. I understand the easiest > route is 5.6, so that's fine. Again, thanks in advance.

    If done solely as a climbing route......Start at the 1st switchback (lowest one)past from the main canyon/Rte 9 junction, heading toward the tunnel. Go up canyon and then climb out left (LUC-looking up canyon) and climb up to the final rappel of Spry Canyon (canyon between East Temple and Twin Brother). Bypass the cliff barrier midway up, to the left of the drainage. At the base of the final pouroff of Spry, climb out right and work your way up and right for a couple of hundred feet to the natural weakness. Climb a steep 5.4 pitch, with candlestick like projections (minmal/no prp) to were the difficulties ease. Up the gully/chimney (outside of and on the climbers left), through a pass and arrive at Spry Canyon at the dogleg rap, that used to be bypassed from the big tree or the ugly gully left (LDC-looking down canyon). The now standard dogleg rap usually uses a flat chockstone at the slot head as an anchor. Instead delicately step chockstone to the slopy ledge, on the right side, for 25 feet (exposed class 3) to a shallow gully heading up right. Sling the small bushes if it makes you feel better and climb 35 feet or so, up the slabby gully (5.6) and with heart pounding angle left to a tree and a belay anchor. Immediately beyond, jump the 3-4 foot slot (easy lead in) and arrive at juction of sorts.

    Mt. Spry To your left and and at some distance, but not much higher is the summit. Between you and it is complicated country. Pick, choose and explore your way to the final steep cap. It can be reached via class 4 climbing, but harder climbing looms nearby. Descend to above the 5.6 gully, but rap instead into Spry Canyon, just up canyon. This leaves you below the 95 foot rap and above the dogleg rap, in the dark corridor. Either rap and downclimb your ascent route or rap down Spry canyon. Another option below

    Twin Brother After the jump over, work your way up to the obvious and spectacular slabs and climb (rock shoes handy). 1/3 of the way up, the slabs get steeper and it is easiest in a shallow hollow (5.3). This is where the red Navajo gives way to the white Navajo. Class 3-4 and delightful, with expansive views, one climbs up about 1200 feet. The final headwall looms and intimidates. The route steepens and 2 options exist. Climb a right facing gully (sandy) or step left (better) onto a ridge and climb up (5.3). Just as you feel the game is ending, into the steep headwall, find ledges left that take you around the corner and up to the summit plateau (class 3). Descend as suggested for Mt. Spry. Another option below.

    Twin Brother traverse From the summit (west end-marked wrong on topo Utah), traverse the summit to the cap, looking off the NNW face, Rap off a pinion through the cap (caution, sharp edges) and down a bit till it eases. You are on a slab, with parllel shallow grooves running up and down. Work your way down (this area can be climbed up at 5.4) until it steepens below and you can see a shoulder to your left (west). Traverse over (class 4 exposed) to a bulge on this shoulder. A friend set a couple of tricams (may still be there) to protect the 5.6 slab traverse (20 feet) right on the northern of the peaks two west ridges. If reversing the route, one arrives at the steepening with the NNW slopes just beyond invisible, but it goes. Scarier looking than it is. Just beyond, the difficulties are done. descend this west ridge, often on the south side (awesome and normally hidden slot visable) before jumping over, onto the north side and into the large and beautiful slickrock saddle between Twin Brother and Mt. of the Sun (MOS). Descend the Pine Creek route or Employee Canyon, Another option below.

    The Grand Slam

    Ascending the standard south face route on MOS, with the other two peaks. The slam goes at 5.6 both ways.

    Variation For Mt. Spry or Twin Brother via the SW slabs. Go the standard Spry Canyon route. Rather than doing the 95 foot rap, climb out right (LDC) and rap or downclimb one level to the jump over and follow above descriptions. This may reduce the rating to 5.3 for both peaks. It may also be possible to angle up to the slabs of Twin Brothers SW slopes from the just beyond the 2nd rap on the standard Spry canyon route.

    Bo, is that the sound of you smacking your lips? I will have to post this to Canyons for Brian and Tom, who share a taste for such fare. Enjoy Courtney, and do give a report. Ram
  2. cntsavery

    cntsavery Guest

    >The now standard dogleg rap usually uses a flat > chockstone at the slot head as an anchor. Instead delicately step > chockstone to the slopy ledge, on the right side, for 25 feet (exposed > class 3) to a shallow gully heading up right. Sling the small bushes > if it makes you feel better and climb 35 feet or so, up the slabby > gully (5.6) and with heart pounding angle left to a tree and a belay > anchor. Immediately beyond, jump the 3-4 foot slot (easy lead in) and > arrive at juction of sorts.

    Twas not so long ago that we were standing at the top of the black rappel and wondering whether this was the route over to climb Mt. Spry. I'm having trouble replaying the directions backwards, though. Assume that the "now standard dogleg rappel" is the next rappel downcanyon from the Black 95 footer, which, if one stays in the canyon, can be a two stage rappel of about 100 total feet, with a swim/wade in the middle. When we were in there on the 12th, there was a suweeeet chocklog anchor after the middle pool, which made it two rappels.

    If that assumption is correct, then help me get back uphill on this mental climb I'm doing from my desk. Looking upcanyon from the chockstone anchor, does one "step [across] the chockstone anchor [to the left, or westish/northish side of the main Spry Canyon drainage] to the slopey ledge" and proceed from there up the right side of the gullies that drain that west/north side of the drainage, or does one stay on the right side, the eastish/southish side of the Spry drainage and proceed to climb around and up above the level of the Black Rappel, thence leftish and westish to Mt Spry.

    Sorry if I've confused you, but looking downcanyon, starting with the Black Rappel slot and proceeding to the end of the Spry Narrows, there are a lot of drainages that come in from the right side in a few hundred yards (westish/northish) and I'm trying to mentally picture whether the route up to Mt. Spry takes those drainages, or whether it upclimbs to the Black Rappel and then proceeds from there. . .



    >The now standard dogleg rap usually uses a flat > chockstone at the slot head as an anchor. Instead delicately step > chockstone to the slopy ledge, on the right side, for 25 feet (exposed > class 3) to a shallow gully heading up right. Sling the small bushes > if it makes you feel better and climb 35 feet or so, up the slabby > gully (5.6) and with heart pounding angle left to a tree and a belay > anchor. Immediately beyond, jump the 3-4 foot slot (easy lead in) and > arrive at juction of sorts.
  3. adkramoo

    adkramoo Guest

    --- In Yahoo Canyons Group, "cntsavery" <Christopher.Avery@t...> wrote:> Assume > that the "now standard dogleg rappel" is the next rappel downcanyon > from the Black 95 footer, which, if one stays in the canyon, can be a > two stage rappel of about 100 total feet, with a swim/wade in the > middle. When we were in there on the 12th, there was a suweeeet > chocklog anchor after the middle pool, which made it two rappels.

    That is correct...so the dogleg rap is now broken into 2 at the dogleg left, looking down canyon? Interesting.

    At the very top of the dogleg/now 2 rap rappel, step right (east side)of the drainage, at the top chockstone, looking down canyon. Slopey ledge starts there.. I use this point because it is how the route is accessed without canyoneering and canyon gear. In the variation, at the end, I mention that one may access the top of the gully, above the ledge, from the top of the rap above, which is the 95 foot one you are calling the Black rap. This is true too. One must get down one level to meet the top of the gully before the slot jump. You are right about all the small drainages coming off the mountain, into the canyon. By doing the slot jump and working up toward Twin Brother, a bit, before striking toward Mt. Spry, this convoluted area becomes less so. Still a lot of in and out, up and downs. bring your route finding skills R
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