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UT: Zion Leisurely day down Spry and bolt placement question

Discussion in 'Trip Reports' started by bhalvers2002, Oct 24, 2014.

  1. bhalvers2002

    bhalvers2002

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    Had a nice trip down Spry in September - been a few years since doing this one. Great day.

    Nothing new to report, but I have a question about the best way to approach rap 4(?) in Spry. The placement is on the far wall and requires stretching over the opening. We used a meat anchor to reach it, set the rope and rappel, but it was a bit awkward. With such a popular route, wonder if others have a better idea.

    upload_2014-10-24_12-11-13.

    Cut out from minute 2:05 from video below

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    Tyler Ley likes this.
  2. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    I just reached over and threaded it. It was no big deal (the only other person with me was my 10 year old kid, so it would have been pointless to set up a meat anchor anyway). There was another anchor present, but it was causing bad rope burns, so maybe someone removed it. The anchor pictured has a very clean pull and is the one that should be used. As long as the ledge isn't icy or if you are a midget, it shouldn't be hard to reach.

    Hundreds of people have used that anchor without any problems, but setting up a belay won't do any harm.
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2014
  3. Deagol

    Deagol too many hobbies

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    is that yellow pack one of the new Canyonwerks packs ?
  4. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    No.

    It's a Rodcle pack.

    I believe TJ at Adventureplus sells them.
    TJ Cottam and Deagol like this.
  5. Tom Collins

    Tom Collins

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    In days past there used to be a long strand of webbing running to a tree up higher. You could clip a safety tether to it for your approach to the anchor. I'm not sure why it was removed, while it's not really necessary in the summer, if you do the route in the winter that drop can be a little icy and dangerous.
    spinesnaper likes this.
  6. Slipknot

    Slipknot

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    In the past, I have clipped the rope with a biner and some webbing 8' long. Someone can sit further away from the edge and pull the rope back to them for a tying in and cinch up as they approach the anchor. One year is was quite slippery and we didn't want to belay everyone in the group to the anchor.
    darhawk likes this.
  7. Rick Demarest

    Rick Demarest

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    It was there on September 22nd. We used it to rig.
  8. Canyonero

    Canyonero

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    I just reach over. But I understand why some would be a little nervous. I do usually clip into it while rigging. It's a nice location for rope pulling, so I'm glad the bolts are there, but I'd use a belay if it was icy. But I've been through that canyon with snow in it, and haven't seen that spot icy.
  9. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    It would be removed because it is litter.

    If you want a belay off the tree, set up a belay. No reason to leave litter behind after you are done.

    Tom
  10. Alane Urban

    Alane Urban

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    Are there suggestions for bolt placement? I didn't like reaching for that anchor (we were even using the safety off the tree) and for a popular route it is difficult. Everyone here saying they are okay with it is experienced. Is there a better way for the not so experienced? I'd like to see it.
  11. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    We cannot eliminate all possible hazards in canyons.

    Tom
    Austin Baird likes this.
  12. Austin Baird

    Austin Baird

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    Spry was the first canyon that I led and it was my second-ever technical canyon and we didn't have a problem with that anchor. So even inexperienced people are ok with it. Put yourself on belay off the tree if you're that nervous.
  13. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    Are there suggestions for bolt placement?

    I think the bolt is fine where it is. That particular drop doesn't have the rope burns that some of the others do. It also has a really clean pull. For those that don't like the reach, you can always use a piece webbing or rope to set up a belay for everyone but the last person.

    Last year though, there was another bolt station in there, but it sounds like it has been removed, probably because it would cause rope burns.
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2014
  14. hank moon

    hank moon lovely ligatures

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    That station is perfectly placed to avoid rope grooves, a rare achievement in sandstone. I'd like to celebrate it. Yay! WHooHoooo!

    Most of the difficulty is psychological in dry conditions; sometimes an experienced person tethered to the station and "blocking" the drop is enough to help others approach it with greater ease and confidence. Otherwise, there are various other ways (safer than blocking) to comfort-ize and safeguard the approach using meat anchors, etc.

    Note: even in dry conditions, beware of sand (aka 'dry ice') when approaching this anchor.

    Alane, just curious...how many times have you done that rappel? I found it intimidating the first time or two, but it gets easier (eventually).
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2014
  15. Alane Urban

    Alane Urban

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    Just the one time, Hank. It is many times just a mental game out there.
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2014
  16. Alane Urban

    Alane Urban

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    And if we could, most would not being doing this sport. It is about learning about yourself and your perceived limits, right?
  17. hank moon

    hank moon lovely ligatures

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    Yes, and more. One aspect of the riskier non-team sports is getting into and enjoying the mental "zone" of intensely-focused activity. Some liken it to meditation.
    Alane Urban likes this.
  18. Slipknot

    Slipknot

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    Nothing left behind. It was just webbing I used to pull the rappel rope to me as opposed out to walking to the rope. Once tied in, I took the sling with me.
    Kuenn likes this.
  19. Canyonero

    Canyonero

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    Especially with the one right after it with those 1 foot deep rope grooves. I'm always terrified I'm going to get a rope stuck on those.
  20. MTN_DUDE

    MTN_DUDE

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    I've only done Spry once and I do remember that rappel station. That one happened to be my turn to set up the rappel and I remember saying, "Huh, that seems kind of different." Then I looked at how there was almost no rope grooves (and as @Canyonero pointed out, there are some really bad ones in Spry), and it made it easier to rappel--in my mind.
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