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Tech Tip: Question Gloves

Discussion in 'Tech Tips and Gear' started by Bootboy, Mar 24, 2013.

  1. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    I have tried several different things when it comes to gloves in cold, wet canyons. If its warm I just carry a leather glove on my harness and just use it for rapping. But in cold canyons with constant immersion (kolob, imlay, heaps, or any wet canyon in the shoulder seasons fir that matter), I've yet to find a setup I'm really happy with.

    What does everyone wear and what about your gloves do you like and not like. I want to try something else but I'm not sure which way to go.

    Lets hear it.
  2. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    I think a lot of folks like the Atlas Thermal model. Cheap and kinda warm. Ice climbers love them for mixed climbing. They do ok wet but they don't insulate well, to be sure.

    [​IMG]
    Warmer than this, since you're hands are immersed in water...probably involves a combination of neoprene with a durable covering. I think Ram has mentioned using dishwashing gloves as an initial water barrier and layering over those.

    If its real cold, I'd probably consider sacraficing a pair of thicker neoprene diving gloves.

    Another thing you might try to keep your hands warm, is, to train them for cold water. Immerse, thaw, etc. Seemed to help me.
  3. Scott Chandler

    Scott Chandler Wildness is a necessity-John Muir

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    Gotta love when a way of helping yourself is causing a non-freezing cold injury.

    For reals though, that is why I don't need neoprene booties (although I still use them.) I got "immersion foot" hiking Kanarra Creek in October a few years back and ever since have had less thermal sensation in my feet.
  4. JamesM

    JamesM

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    I just got the H2o Odyssey glove they are 5mm and have pretty good grip. I,ve only used them in 3 canyons so far with no issue. I would imagine that after some time the rope and sandstone could eat through the palm.
  5. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    That what aqua seal is for :)
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  6. Mountaineer

    Mountaineer Is that an X slot?

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    I use cheap Walmart weight lifting or similar glove. Prior to use, put a bunch of gorilla tape around the palm/thumb/finger area. They seem to hold up a long time.

    For the colder temps, a good 5mm scuba glove seems to work. Don't forget a scuba hood!

    Reasonable priced are the XS Scuba.


    [​IMG]
  7. TJ Cottam

    TJ Cottam Adventure Plus

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    I've been using the AMP 1.5mm from Hyperlex under a protective glove. The seems are sealed and keep most of the water out (until they develop holes) so even at 1.5mm they are reasonably warm. Make sure you wear another glove over them because they will shred very quickly otherwise. I like the 1.5mm because they give you warmth without severely limiting dexterity. I've had them in single digit temps in wet canyons and I still have all my fingers :D
    [​IMG]
  8. hank moon

    hank moon lovely ligatures

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    Cold and wet: The Atlas/dishwash combo Brian mentioned works well. If there's not much rapping, i like a fully coated glove w/gauntlet (e.g. Monkey Grip, pictured). They are surprisingly warm, but not particularly grippy, esp. when rappelling.

    I haven't had good experiences with Neo gloves: not durable, and surprisingly not very warm, either, unless you go really thick. For a lot of swimming in really cold water with no raps, (e.g. FreezeFest, Jan 1), a fat neo's probably the ticket. Neos are not good for rappelling as they substantially reduce grip on the rope.

    Not a fan of wet leather as it tends to be very slick, especially when rappelling. If the rope is wet, I like to rap bare-handed. I do like leather for long, dry raps in the 250' or greater range.

    For mostly dry Mae Westers and general hand protection, latex-coated Atlas are the way to go. Super grippy and reasonably durable, if you don't rap with them. Rapping holes 'em quick. Not really a problem, I'm just obsessed with squeezing the most mileage out of stuff.

    EDIT: the above comments stem from a sandstone canyon context - thanks to Kevin for reminding me of that. Still, I avoid using neos when rapping. The thick, sponginess of them reduces mechanical grip efficiency and if they start shredding mid-rap, can be some greasy moments as the brake hand "dissolves".




    monkeygrip3312.
  9. cirrus2000

    cirrus2000

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    In cold, flowing canyons up here around Vancouver, I like my MEC paddling gloves. 3mm, with little grippy silicone on the palms and inside of fingers. I find them adequately warm, and I've been happy with the amount of friction so far.



    MEC Humboldt SQ 3mm Gloves (Unisex)

    Edited to add:
    I'd never wear them in sandstone - only smooth granitic canyons, where they won't get shredded! For the rough stuff, I'm happy with my Atlas Thermals (plain blue Atlas in warmer times).
  10. trackrunner

    trackrunner

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    A lot of people have a setup that they prefer. YMMV

    I generally prefer no gloves. While rappelling if I notice I do not have enough friction, I'll add some on the fly ASAP. If the water is cold, I'll try to keep my hands out of the water, especially if the air temperature is reasonable. At freeze fest I use a setup that hank mentioned and try hard to keep my hands out of the water.

    In slots that eat up your hands climbing & down-climbing, I prefer a thermal atlas glove. If the air temperature is cold I will wear the thermal atlas glove to keep my hands warm on the hike.

    I will wear a leather glove on a long rappel. Not for friction, but to protect my hand from handling a hot rappel device at the end of the rappel.

    On my February trip, I accidentally cut my hand on a rock. The rest of the trip I wore gloves to hold the bandage in place. Ironically if I was wearing a glove I wouldn't have cut my hand, but had I watched my footing I also would not have cut my hand.
  11. Ram

    Ram

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    I use dish glove UNDER the Atlas gloves. Use the medium sized ones. Not the flimsy or super thick ones. They create a snug fit that is great for grip climbing and rapping. I tuck the dish gloves under the wetsuit wrist, but they come out after a bit of time. No matter. They work on the same principal as the wetsuit. They let water in and out slowly, slowing transference and allowing your hand warmth to warm the water. A passive, untwisted rubber band at the wrist, over the dish glove, slows transfer of water in and out, even more. BUT don't twist the rubber band. It is amazing how little pressure it takes to restrict blood flow to and from the hand, making your hands colder.
    Ram
  12. Jenny

    Jenny

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    Ditto Kevin. I used an early model of these MEC 3mm gloves through the Black Hole this past Jan. 1st (FreezeFest XI) and had cozy warm hands.
  13. hank moon

    hank moon lovely ligatures

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    I'm with ya on that preference...and hand protection is a great reason to wear them. Note that leather gloves generally decrease friction, rather than increasing it. They do allow a tighter grip w/o pain, though. Trade-offs.

    Kevin, good point on the granite being easier on neos than sandstone! Jenny, those neos make it easier to pick up ice windows, too!
  14. hank moon

    hank moon lovely ligatures

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    Yeah, brand-new drysuit wrist gasket - brrrr....esp. when small size gasket wrongly attached to M size suit in early March Water Canyon snow-flow. coldest hands since I left Canada!
  15. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Last section of Heaps, when wet, does not have many rappels - you know, only 10 or so. For this I sometimes bring a thick neoprene glove, then pull them off for the rappels and rap bare-handed, put the gloves back on as soon as I get down.

    Neoprene gloves very dangerous for rappelling - bulk restricts grasping ability, and the friction on them is not good.

    Tom
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  16. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    I got hooked up with some of these today by a buddy.
    [​IMG]

    I've already aquasealed all the seamsand finger tips, and I'm going to glue leather to the palms for rapping. We'll see...

    This won't be a glove I wear often. Just the cold days in canyon like heaps, imlay and Kolob, where the cold water exposure is sustained.
    I wore sealskinz last October in imlay. The water was in the 40s and flowing. I needed something more for my hands.
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  17. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    Any body used the kong canyon gloves?
  18. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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  19. Ram

    Ram

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  20. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    Thems the ones...

    In still trying to find the ideal setup...
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