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Other Funny anchor.

Discussion in 'Trip Reports' started by NorthBound, Sep 30, 2019.

  1. NorthBound

    NorthBound

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    While descending willow canyon with a group a friends, found one of the anchor stations that I had rigged a few months prior, had been replaced with an insane set up. Wish I had taken a picture of it before I took it down. Anyhoo it was six 10mm quicklinks and an omega Pacific rap ring. It was like quicklink Xmas :) anybody else ever run into insane rigging?[​IMG]

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  2. 2065toyota

    2065toyota

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    I've actually never purchased a new quick link before. Always found plenty of extras left in canyons
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  3. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    Curious...after you took it down, what did you replace it with?
  4. NorthBound

    NorthBound

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    1 inch tube webbing, tied with an overhand in the direction of load. And of course I used an 8mm link.

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  5. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    There's a whole bunch of ways to skin that anchor cat...

    For me, if the anchor was as shown in the OP, and, I had an extra ring or rapid link...I might leave something along these lines:

    upload_2019-10-3_11-30-3.

    Even disconnecting the anchor on one side from the ring would orient the ring in a standard hanger in an optimum position for rope pull, with another ring or rapide on the other side, ditto.

    Another option would have been to shorten the anchor on one side to a single rapide from the hanger with that ring. Then lengthen the other anchor to be 4 rapides. Still have some redundancy. Rope would "see" the ring as the primary anchor. Easy rope pull.

    My opinion is...no webbing on a fixed anchor is "best practice". Along with rings instead of the captive wear point on either end of a rapid link. Steel rings (OP pic looks like an aluminum ring? I think those Omega Pacific rings are aluminum...I've never liked those for a fixed anchor).

    Cheers.
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  6. NorthBound

    NorthBound

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    Oh I agree with you! The set up you have pictured is Especially important when it's in a flash flood class C type area/environment.

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  7. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Chain tends to beat up our soft sandstone, so should generally be avoided in sandstone canyons. So thanks for replacing with softgoods if appropriate.

    Rather impolite to characterize someone’s fairly reasonable anchor as “insane”. A bit odd, yes. Safe, yes. Best practice, not so much.

    Tom
  8. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    Might have been an assumption on my part, but, Tuscon area for Willow Canyon? Would be granite?
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  9. Canyon Monkey

    Canyon Monkey Useful Idiot

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    Yes. It is on Mt Lemmon which is mostly granite. It is also know as Seven Cataracts.
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  10. NorthBound

    NorthBound

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    You are correct its granite only damage done on that rappel was to there ropes( most likely)The way the anchor station and the position of the drop would make for a nasty rope pull.

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