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Escapes and Captures

Discussion in 'Tech Tips and Gear' started by Ram, Mar 31, 2013.

  1. Ram

    Ram

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    A two stage rap with a keeper in the middle that is a swimmer. Throw bags, then get one person out. That person stays at mid station ledge to help the rest of the group, then goes last
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    Meat anchored etrier from a swimmer
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    Second stage of the rap. Rapping from a sandtrap on top of the first stage
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    The second stage from below. Evwen seasoned groups will take an hour to get 5 folks through this rap
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  2. Ram

    Ram

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    Here is a 4th set in the last few days from this spring. (Did you see the 2 at the end of page one from yesterday?) This pot was a swimmer with no ledges (unknown at the time). A pothole specialist went in first and tried to escape, even employing a log. He failed. Right away, before the cold impacted the escaper, a second person entered to see if partner assist might work. At the same time, our thrower got sand in a shot or two and was ready to throw, with another person ready to toss out rope in timing with the throw. At the same time, our 5th, me in this case, readied for a haul back up for the two folks in the pot, should none of these methods work, so they could get warm and we could regroup for another try with new ideas.
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    With two of them in the hole, the helper managed to get a left hand hold only on the left wall LDC, just below the water. The escape artist used his right hand to brace on the wall in opposition, the two of them acting as one person, helping the escaper to get a foot or two up and out of the water, using opposition. See below how higher they are in the water than the first and last pictures?
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    High enough that his 5.12 bouldering skill, in conjunction to a push on his foot (delicate balance). It may look like he is standing, but he has no underwater purchase aside from the aid of his helper.
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    Then out. Followers will get hauled
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    The key aside from great climbing ability is that two people acted as one left hand and one right hand to get a start.
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    Last edited: Jun 19, 2014
  3. SCard

    SCard

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    Great stuff, Ram. Thanks!
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  4. Ram

    Ram

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    Another slightly new wrinkle on "the art of capture" from last week...We all rapped off of Bailey and she came down to a nasty, off angle spot. While we could lean in and almost reach her feet, the fall line was to the side and would drop someone 20 feet to a nasty landing. Soooo what to do?

    The angle is steeper here than it appears, the picture looking upward at sharp angle. Also Bailey's spot is more insecure than it appears. The possibility to slide down the nose is very real. Guy is strong, but it would be dangerous to depend on him and his strength only
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    Note how Eric (yellow orange helmet) and I are adding stability to Guy. We are NOT looking to Bailey at all. Our job is to make Guy's stance as secure as possible. We practiced this BEFORE Bailey came down, taking Guy's suggestions on where to support him. Now Baily is on her belly, a total "surrender" move. She must trust her partners now. IF she bends her legs or tries using her lower body to help, she severely undermines our efforts and her own safety. NOW LOOK BETWEEN BAILEY'S FEET for a big key to this capture. That is a rope. It is attached to her harness. The rope goes to Tom, who is hidden behind the capture pyramid. Tom is making sure that if Bailey loses purchase above, before we can bring her in, on the capture, that her fall arc will be into the ledge, not down the fall line to disaster. Tom, did you have to take in, let out or keep neutral on the rope?
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    Look between Guy's and my feet and there is Tom, helping to make this whole scheme work safely. Note that Bailey has "worked over toward us and all can now help more directly, her path to the ledge
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    All done. The crack Bailey came down is out of view, but the rope bags sits were a fall would have landed. Nice work, folks.
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    Another view of the drop. All pictures above from Bucky Glaubitz
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  5. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Ramoo says: Another slightly new wrinkle on "the art of capture" from last week...We all rapped off of Bailey and she came down to a nasty, off angle spot. While we could lean in and almost reach her feet, the fall line was to the side and would drop someone 20 feet to a nasty landing. Soooo what to do?

    The angle is steeper here than it appears, the picture looking upward at sharp angle. Also Bailey's spot in the first pictures is more precarious than it appears. The possibility to slide down the nose is very real. Guy (in front, orange helmet) is strong, but it would be dangerous to depend on him and his strength only

    baileycapture01.

    Note how Eric (obscured, blue panel wetsuit) and I (Ram) are adding stability to Guy. We are NOT looking to Bailey at all. Our job is to make Guy's stance as secure as possible. We practiced this BEFORE Bailey came down, taking Guy's suggestions on where to support him. Now Bailey is on her belly, a total "surrender" move. She must trust her partners now. IF she bends her legs or tries using her lower body to help, she severely undermines our efforts and her own safety. NOW LOOK BETWEEN BAILEY'S FEET for a big key to this capture. That is a rope. It is attached to her harness. The rope goes to Tom, who is hidden behind the capture pyramid. Tom is making sure that if Bailey loses purchase above, before we can bring her in, on the capture, that her fall arc will be into the ledge, not down the fall line to disaster. Tom, did you have to take in, let out or keep neutral on the rope? (Take in a bit).

    baileycapture02.

    Look between Guy's and my feet and there is Tom, helping to make this whole scheme work safely. Note that Bailey has "worked over toward us and all can now help more directly, her path to the ledge

    baileycapture03.

    All done. Nice work, folks.
    Another view of the drop. All pictures above from Bucky Glaubitz
    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2014
  6. Ram

    Ram

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    Murray is a beast. 6'5" of power. Mike McPhee is an excellent climber. Here they work together to produce a static LAPAR capture. Notice that the moment that Murray has contact with both feet, Mike straightens his knees and flattens against the wall and gives total control to Murray who brings him. This we call a "surrender move." If Mike were to keep his knees bent, the forces on Murray would increase dramatically and also the possibility of falling "out the side" would grow substantially. If this were a higher or a harder climb or a worse landing, Murray might have someone help him by being at his side and/or having someone support his balance. Mike could also wedge the pack gently above him and use the sling coming from it to essential reduce gravity, making the climb easier and increase his ability to get lower, into the capture, with control

    I don't know how to get this video to embed. See it here
    https://picasaweb.google.com/110144504833836215851/HappyDog10151612?noredirect=1#5807496304499368578
  7. Ram

    Ram

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    Here Jenny is meat, followed in the next picture, with Murray doing a capture of Jenny. Could someone slide down, "Coming in Hot!" without getting hurt? Sure, but there is a little lip at the bottom just under the water that could catch an ankle. If you have a dozen of these in a day and you play dozens of days a year, then someday, it will go badly. Not to mention that this is in the middle of a technical canyon, on an overnight, where it would take a healthy person a day to get out from this location. Figuring out the capture stuff is fun anyway. No two problems are exactly the same. The mind set needed bonds you to your TEAMmates too.

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  8. Ram

    Ram

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    This April, for a total of 14 operating days, I was priveliged to accompany three different groups of creative and talented, upbeat canyoneers.. Teamwork was the theme, as many a drop was done with captures of all kinds. Nothing earth shatteringly new. Just great fundamentals. A few here

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    The pack drag
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    More pack drag
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    Something a tad different. Dyno teamwork around a swimmer. Avoiding water with any risky moves is bad form...or so says I. But this was a hard stemming canyon and having dry shoes and no wet clothes water weight can balance the ledger this time

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    Last edited: May 5, 2015
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  9. Mountaineer

    Mountaineer Is that an X slot?

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    Amazing shots! Nice moves there. Takes a lot of guts and wit.
  10. Rapterman

    Rapterman

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    Ram-
    I love this thread (and your many fine stories and commentary).
    Of course it is a lot of work but many of us are chanting:
    ...book, book, book, book, book, book, book!
  11. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    Pascal capturing Bucky = Ideal scenario
  12. Ram

    Ram

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    [​IMG]

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  13. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

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    Great post, but I think I would bust in half in the position above. Some people are so flexible. Impressive!
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  14. Canyonero

    Canyonero

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    Bottom line- never go canyoneering in a group where you are the lightest. :)

    Just kidding. It's amazing the drops that can be capturable that you would have to rappel if you were solo. Just a light touch that last 8+ feet changes something from not downclimbable to downclimbable.
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  15. Canyonero

    Canyonero

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    The book I want from Ram isn't technically oriented, but historically oriented. I even offered to do the editing and publishing.
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  16. Tom Collins

    Tom Collins TommyBoy

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    +1 I'd Read that.
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  17. Ram

    Ram

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    Photos by Tom

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  18. Rapterman

    Rapterman

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    LOVING this thread :twothumbs:
    Every newbie canyoneer should check it out because
    It's cool :cool:
    And it helps folks to understand that our sport is
    NOT just sliding down a rope.
    Though that is cool too
    :D
    Ram likes this.
  19. Ram

    Ram

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    No pictures with this one. A friend I did canyons with this fall had a traffic accident. The person changed it into a canyoneering and teaching opportunity


    "I have a funny/crazy story I needed to tell you. Earlier this week I was in a car accident driving on I-15 in the snow at night. I lost control of my car on some ice (I'm not an experienced winter-weather driver), sliding off the road and rolled (this isn't the funny part!) Luckily I escaped pretty unscathed, but in order to get out of my car, which was on its side, I had to climb up and out of the passenger window and slide down the top of my car 6-7 feet. When the cop arrived to help me get out I was like "oh it's ok I'm a canyoneer!" and talked him through partner assisting me down the top of my car! Pretty bizarre and scary experience but it was cool in that moment to connect some crazy moment back to canyoneering haha!"
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