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Edelrid Bulletproof Carabiner

Discussion in 'Tech Tips and Gear' started by hank moon, Jan 10, 2018.

  1. hank moon

    hank moon kinetically bulbous

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  2. Rapterman

    Rapterman

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    This is great!
    (i will be buying one)
    ...as long as it fits on a CRITR2.....
    :D
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  3. CRNPRES

    CRNPRES

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    I second, it must fit a critr.
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  4. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    It looks nice but steel does wear, and when that insert wears through it will have a razor edge just waiting to shred a rope as the aluminum that becomes exposed wears away.

    I wonder how thick that insert is anyway...


    I’ll take the weight penalty of my full steel biner and not worry about sharp edges. And still get more use out of it.
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  5. Preston Gable

    Preston Gable

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    I agree the weight of my steel main doesn't concern me one bit, and after quite a few canyons it has almost no wear but is nicely polished
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  6. Kuenn

    Kuenn

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    The Edelrid inlay idea (leveraging the advantages of both materials) is impressive, however I agree with @Bootboy that steel wears too. I've seen stainless steel wear through to the point it could shave the fuzz off a peach.

    Foreground bar is almost to the wear through point, background is only slightly used/polished.

    FullSizeRender.
  7. andrew vaughan

    andrew vaughan

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    does anyone know of a steel biner that has a wire gate?
  8. CRNPRES

    CRNPRES

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    Trango makes one I believe, not sure why you would want one?
  9. andrew vaughan

    andrew vaughan

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    Sorry I worded that question wrong I meant to ask if there is a steel binder with a wire belay loop holders like on the rock exoctica pirate biner


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. CRNPRES

    CRNPRES

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  11. Andrew J Farrow

    Andrew J Farrow

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    i see this as " just a gimmick "

    and having witnessed the debarcle of the " wear plate " in the petzl croll [ google " the deadly petzl croll " for details ]

    i am now wary of " wear plates "
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  12. hank moon

    hank moon kinetically bulbous

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    <BUMP> - has anyone given this 'biner a good trial ?
  13. NevadaSlots

    NevadaSlots

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    IMG-1100 (1).JPG
    I have used it for 3 canyons so far (Spearhead, Lower Refri. Observation Pt.)plus rapping off a couple of towers and this is what it looks like now.

    Observed Positives
    1. Gate has a very powerful snap closure to it, more so than a BD RockLock, I like that.
    2. It will last a little longer than a standard aluminum no doubt.
    3. Fits a CRITR nicely (see negatives)
    4. The screw gate fits snuggly around the gate itself, this helps keep annoying sand out of the screw.
    5. It is a good size and has more a than adequate gate opening.

    Observed Negatives
    1. Probably not worth the extra cash. At more than twice the price of a standard carabiner. Its added longevity does not compensate for the added price, in my opinion.
    2. Bombproof it is not, I think ill only get half of this season out of this carabiner as it is, the steel insert helps but you have to be more vigilant to make sure it doesn't wear through.
    3. As a device such as the CRITR advances along the top of the biner toward the spine the carabiner becomes too wide in diameter so if rappeling single line the rope rides entirely on the steel insert, BUT if rappeling double line (depending on rope width) one of the ropes could easy ride the border between the insert and the aluminum nose. This could create a safety hazard. If Using ATC style device this is not a problem.
    4. As the whole carabiner is not rounded, it does not lend itself as well to biner blocks and the such.


    Conclusion
    I think that the Edelrid is on to something here for the climbing community, this thing would last forever when the ropes are relatively clean. As ropes are rarely clean in a canyon I think that buying whatever carabiner you have been using is probably the better go. That's my 2cents.
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  14. hank moon

    hank moon kinetically bulbous

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    @NevadaSlots thanks for the report. That's a lot of wear for 3 canyons + assorted towers. Was the rope especially dirty?
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  15. NevadaSlots

    NevadaSlots

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    I would say that those canyons got the ropes very sandy but not too wet. Plus the our big 300+ footer has a decent or two on er’ so it’s kinda dirty anyway. Those canyons also have a couple long rappels that did a number on the biner too.. I too have found the wear more than expected.
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  16. Bootboy

    Bootboy Atwood Gear

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    I’m very curious to see how fast this thing will shred a rope once the steel insert wears through :D
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