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Converting static to lower.. a realistic option?

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Chasetharp, Dec 2, 2017.

  1. Chasetharp

    Chasetharp

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    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    This post is not meant as an argument for static versus contingency rigging.

    I’ve seen people learning to convert a static block to a method of lowering, assuming that someone is stuck on rappel for one reason or another. The methods are all similar, you tie a valdotain tresse or similar to the tensioned rope, clip a biner to the anchor, then use a system with a sling or Purcell prusik (2:1, 3:1, etc) to haul the person up far enough to unweight the block and rerig.

    I question if this method is truly effective after a practice session today with full weight (~160 pounds plus the friction over the lip) on the rope. My question is, have you ever converted static to lower in a canyon and if so, what method did you use? I was able to easily haul with my pulley, some rope, and a 3:1 system, but my partner was also much lighter than myself. Thanks for any contributions.
    Rapterman likes this.
  2. CRNPRES

    CRNPRES

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    Were you have issues pulling the person up or holding them up and tying you 3:1 off?

    I am not sure on if you are using a progress capture on you 3:1?

    I use this system more often:
    upload_2017-12-4_11-56-8.
    Last edited: Dec 4, 2017
    Chasetharp likes this.
  3. The Dread Pirate Roberts

    The Dread Pirate Roberts

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    @Chasetharp I've used the method you described, in general, and it works pretty well. We were practicing some rappelling and the group next to us had someone get their hair stuck in the rap device. We hauled her up about 18 inches or so with a 3:1, using a tiblock, microtraxion, and a pulley. The microtraxion was also used as a progress capture which helps a lot. Then I added a ATS, because that's what I'm comfortable with and had on-hand, to the rap line and attached it to the anchor. We slowly released the pressure off the 3:1 and removed it. Then lower the rappeller to the ground. It defiantly helps to have someone there to help you and space to work. It worked really well.
    Chasetharp likes this.
  4. Chasetharp

    Chasetharp

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    That’s the issue at hand. People are commonly taught, it seems, to use a sling and biners as a simple solution to hauling someone. With the friction in the system, I can’t see the average person hauling anyone up with such a method.

    I do admire your system though, similar to what I ended up with while out practicing.
  5. Chasetharp

    Chasetharp

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    Thanks for the response, glad to know that you could help them out! I guess my point was that people may be gaining some false confidence with their converting skills, thinking that a sling, vt, and couple biners can lift someone that potentially weighs more than themselves over a ledge.
  6. Phavant

    Phavant

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    Some times I have to use a sling to go to a 5:1, in practice under load I have had to use a 9:1 once. I find rigging a contingency to be simpler and and almost the same amount of time as blocking.
  7. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Could you diagram out the system you are criticizing? As a guide I have done this, and successfully, but only with light people, mostly children. With good anchor geometry. I understand your concern and share it, as basically the primary method taught only works with an ideally located anchor.

    Tom
    Moab Mark likes this.
  8. Tirrus

    Tirrus Rope rider.

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    If only the elves had been trained in double strand changeovers.

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