Send us a suggestion!

Tech Tip: Question Carabiner wear

Discussion in 'Tech Tips and Gear' started by Mountaineer, Jul 17, 2013.

  1. Mountaineer

    Mountaineer Is that an X slot?

    Messages:
    1,284
    Likes:
    986
    So at what point do you retire your carabiner? How much wear? No matter how hard I try to keep my rope clean, it seems I can go through a carabiner and sometimes even a rap device in a trip or two.

    Any tips to keep this stuff around longer?


    IMAG0320.
  2. 2065toyota

    2065toyota

    Messages:
    703
    Likes:
    776
    Practice good rope care and use rope bags. I got 28 canyons the start of the this year on 1 ATS & 1 Biner. I retired the ATS to a backup but my biner still looks like your one on the left and is still in use. When I used an ATC I burned through the biners, not sure what device you are using, but by the wear marks that's what it looks like
    Mountaineer likes this.
  3. Mountaineer

    Mountaineer Is that an X slot?

    Messages:
    1,284
    Likes:
    986

    Wow, 28. I use rope bags, but seems still tough to keep the sand off.

    Yes, mostly ATC on these.
  4. 2065toyota

    2065toyota

    Messages:
    703
    Likes:
    776
    The ATS is $40, but you will save more money in biners than that. And I feel you end up with a safer and more versatile device.
    TJ Cottam likes this.
  5. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

    Messages:
    851
    Likes:
    902
    Location:
    Salt Lake City
    My level of wear is about a 1/3 way through the bar stock on a biner, and, when an ATC gets a sharp edge.

    Don't canyon in sandstone sandy canyons especially ones that are sans water...that'll save on wear.

    I think the coating on a rope makes it more prone to having dirt/debris stick to it. So...go uncoated (ie, non dry finish).

    Wash your rope.

    Switch to a steel carabiner. Mind your friction if you do that...
    Mountaineer likes this.
  6. Mike Zampino

    Mike Zampino Canyon season never ends.

    Messages:
    565
    Likes:
    535
    Location:
    Phoenix, AZ
    How many Keyhole's = 1 Imlay? :p

    (ps - I know you aren't doing 28 keyhole's ;))
    Erik B. likes this.
  7. 2065toyota

    2065toyota

    Messages:
    703
    Likes:
    776
    24 keyholes and 4 Yankees
  8. Erik B.

    Erik B. Thirsty for canyon...

    Messages:
    142
    Likes:
    212
    Location:
    Bellingham, Wa
    OH!!! OH!!! I GOT THIS ONE! Ok...so at sprint pace it took 13 minutes to do keyhole while it took us 10.5 hrs (630 mins) to do Imlay (maybe not quite at sprint pace). 630/13= 48ish

    48 keyholes: 1 Imlay. :) ...since that makes sense...
    Mike Zampino likes this.
  9. ratagonia

    ratagonia

    Messages:
    4,090
    Likes:
    4,871
    Location:
    Mount Carmel, Utah

    Yeah but... gotta take out the approach and exit time. Recalculate = ???

    Tom
  10. 2065toyota

    2065toyota

    Messages:
    703
    Likes:
    776
    Conditions make a huge difference. Last trip through imlay it was flowing so there was really no gear wear at all.
  11. gajslk

    gajslk

    Messages:
    462
    Likes:
    359
    Easy, divide the total distance rapped, Imlay/Keyhole. As a reality check, if you downclimb/slide/jump in Keyhole, the ratio goes to infinity, as it should. We're good.

    Gordon
  12. Ram

    Ram

    Messages:
    2,220
    Likes:
    3,840
    After years of disappearing biners, I started keeping the ones half way worn through and used them for biner blocks only and lo and behold, these biners seemed to always come back to me at the end of the day ;)
    There are people who are considered to be experts here who disapprove of this policy and I would not argue with them, in spite of my choice to continue this approach to biner retention. YMMV A LOT! :p
    hank moon and canyoncaper like this.
Similar Threads: Carabiner wear
Forum Title Date
Archives - Yahoo Canyons Group Gear~Carabiner Wear Jan 26, 2006
Tech Tips and Gear Edelrid Bulletproof Carabiner Jan 10, 2018
Tech Tips and Gear Breaking Gates on Carabiners Mar 10, 2016
Tech Tips and Gear Grivel Twin Gate Carabiner Feb 17, 2016
General Discussion BLACK DIAMOND CARABINER/QUICKDRAW SAFETY RECALL NOTICE Feb 5, 2016
Tech Tips and Gear Black Diamond Carabiner Recall 4 Feb 2016 Feb 5, 2016