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Tech Tip: Question Canyoneering 107 - anchor critique

Discussion in 'Tech Tips and Gear' started by ratagonia, Apr 11, 2018.

  1. Rapterman


    ^^ what they said
    As an old climber turned newbie canyoneer my perspective on bolting has evolved.
    A lot.
    Having the opportunity to canyoneer with really experienced folks made an amazing difference.
    Jenny and Scott Chandler like this.
  2. Iceaxe


    Happy anniversary!!!

    It has been 20 years now that I have been posting in on-line canyoneering bolting/anchoring debates. I have nothing of value to add that has not already been posted a couple hundred times before, I just wanted to mark the platinum anniversary.

    Carry on....

  3. Scott Patterson

    Scott Patterson

    This. I admit that my own thoughts have changed over time.

    In the early 90's, I hadn't known of such a debate, but by the late 1990's I was vehemently anti-bolt. I was anti-bolt since it seemed like the lower impact method. Even long slings could be easy to remove, but usually isn't the case with bolts.

    In the last 5-6 years though, I have seen my viewpoints on bolting coming around full circle because I'm not as convinced that bolting is always higher impact. Sometimes it is, but not always. Sometimes a bolt can really help eliminate scarring and rope burns. Sometimes it doesn't (such as the deeply grooved, but bolted rap in Spry Canyon). There are some ghosting methods that can eliminate rope grooves, but they aren't being used by most canyoneers; but only more advanced ones.

    Anyway, to sum it up, sometimes and in some situations, a bolt can be the lower impact anchor. At least in my opinion. If you do place a bolt though, do a good job on it and not some sloppy job such as the bolts that have been installed in much of the San Rafael Swell (Baptist Draw, Upper Black Box, etc.).

    Just make sure you take care of the canyons and all of the other outdoors as well. There are too many people out there trashing places.
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