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Ascended my first stuck rope(now with trip report)

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Drock, Aug 15, 2017.

  1. Drock

    Drock

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    Got the rope stuck on the second rap in Dead Eye Dick, a sweet 70ft I went up. First mistake was not trying a pull when I went down first. After girlfriend came down and tried to pull, realizing it was stuck, we began trying different angles of pull with each strand, moving about in the stomach deep pool. After doing that for a bit with nothing happening, I forgot what strand had the block on it since we couldn't see over the rock lip up top and the bag had come off the end of the rope. I suppose there was some general confusion after we stopped thrashing about in the pool trying every angle of pull.

    Of course I went up the strand that had the block on it (didn't realize it till I could see over lip), but girlfriend had taken other strand and tied in as meat anchor and wedged beneath a rock that was leading into another pool. We were fairly certain if the rope came loose I wouldn't fall since she was my anchor. Going up was smooth and the rope didn't move at all thankfully.

    When I could see over the rock lip I noticed that the rope had become crossed and was blocking the biner from coming over the edge of the rock lip. Any weight applied to one strand effectively blocked the other it seemed. Lesson learned, don't cross the ropes. We did have another rope and a pull cord so we could have left the stuck rope and continued on but we discussed the fact that we could possibly stick the other rope.

    Decision was made, I was going up and she was going to be the anchor and it worked out great. Mistakes were made and we certainly have learned from them. At what point does one decide to leave the rope?

    Dead Eye Dick was a hoot btw.
  2. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Nice. Good on ya, doing things right.

    Tom
  3. Yellow Dart

    Yellow Dart It's only hubris if I fail.

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    If you can finish without it, the decision balances on you having to ask yourself "Is bodily harm and/or death worth the $100 rope." ;)
  4. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    Generally, if you have both ends of the rope, and remember what the anchor is like, and the rope does not cross a sharp edge, ascending is not a high-risk choice.

    The choice is much more difficult when you no longer have both ends.

    We stuck a rope on the 260' second-to-last rappel in Jacob, still had both ends, but... 8mm imlay rope (not Fire), stuck in a crack right near the top, pull cord other side. Neither of us thought it safe to jug it, so we cut the rope and pull cord as high as possible. Had JUST enough rope to get out. But in this case also, we were within sight of the road, so if we could not get out, we could at least flag down a rescue.

    Tom
    Kuenn likes this.
  5. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    Curious if you think the rope would have got stuck had you rappelled double strand?
  6. Drock

    Drock

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    There was no sharp edge and the rope was 9mm. Went single strand instead of double thinking it would be better than having the rope twist up possibly. Once I got back up, I removed the biner and just went down double with no issues on the pull.

    We certainly had both ends and I see what you're saying, Tom, about not having both ends. I don't think I would have attempted it had one end of the rope been out of reach which would have left me without an anchor. I certainly understand your point Yellow Dart, we (girlfriend and I) felt with her being on anchor that I would be safe for the ascent.
  7. Brian in SLC

    Brian in SLC Brian in SLC

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    What rappel device?

    Curious if you consider mitigating "rope twist up"?

    Congrat's on gettin' back up there and freeing Willy!
  8. Drock

    Drock

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    I use a sqwurel device, girlfriend uses critter. We had an 11 year old with us and he does better on single strand so I try and stick to single when he is with us because sometimes on double he has problems getting moving due to the added friction. Generally, we all prefer going down single strand.

    Nope, didn't even think about rope twist going up. Thanks Brian, I was pretty stoked we pulled it off without a hitch.
    hank moon likes this.
  9. Tirrus

    Tirrus Rope rider.

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    Could this have been mitigated by extending the webbing over the lip, and using a courtesy loop for all but the last?
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  10. Drock

    Drock

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    Yes, it sure could have Tirrus.
  11. GravityWins

    GravityWins

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    How about a trip report for Dead Eye and Mighty Mouse? I look forward to experiencing both of these canyons before the end of the year.
  12. Drock

    Drock

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    Well, the first up climb in the second drainage leading up is probably about 20ft now...washed out. We stuck a dead 10ft tree in there to see if it would help get us up but it wasn't happening. Coming back out the drainage we headed left and up, steep little walk up but there is a section where it turns to slick rock that was a little too steep for my girlfriend and her son so I had them tie in as I was a meat anchor for them to pass the section. After that, it was all steep walk up to the scrub oak jungle on top.

    Dropping in the drainage from the top was easy and it was quite overgrown (thorny) and muddy up until the point where you hit the overhang to walk under. After that, fairly easy going. The second rappel (stuck the rope on this one) drops into (as of right now) a stomach deep pool of water which is immediately followed by a short couple steps down into another stomach deep pool. Aside from that, there where no more pools just mud. We used Bluugnome beta which stated 6 rappels, there are now 8 rappels, however I think two of those could be downclimbed or batman'd but we just rappelled since we had an 11 year old with us.

    Third rappel is the 'Taco', it helped to just lean hard left going down this to avoid getting our packs wedged in there...pretty tight but way cool.

    The fourth rappel was off a dead man anchor, didn't need improvement at this time and it was a two stage rappel.

    The sixth rappel is off a buried dead man anchor, didn't need any improvement at this time.

    Seventh rappel, wow...this one was a hoot...maybe 120Ft or so. Anchor was off a large dead tree and the webbing hangs down so its a roll off and drop start. Wayyyy cool! Could hold a lot of water at the bottom of this rappel but was just mud as of now.

    Eighth rappel is off a dead man anchor which didn't need improvement.

    We carried a 144ft rope, 200ft rope, and 200ft pull cord. We didn't wear neo socks or any type of cold water protection and we did get slightly chilled while we were in the slot getting rappels done but nothing too uncomfortable.

    We weren't able to do Mighty Mouse, by the time we exited DED one nasty monsoon was on top of us and we basically jogged the 4.5 miles back out. We were concerned about getting stuck on the dirt road outta there.

    Hope this helps Gravity
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  13. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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  14. Drock

    Drock

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    Oh yeah Tom, we'll be using canyoneeringusa beta from now on. Bluugnome seems a little dated, especially when we did Hidden Canyon earlier this summer and it was a totally different canyon than the beta we had. Was a great trip, just glad we had a bunch of webbing because we went through it making anchors.
  15. Drock

    Drock

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    I should say that some of the beta we have used from BG has seemed dated. Canyons are always changing...hard to stay on top of it all
  16. ratagonia

    ratagonia

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    I usually find Luke's beta quite good, though lengthy and challenging to wade through. However, he does not do the trade routes in Zion much, so does not keep them up to date. Zion is my backyard. Easier for me.

    Tom
  17. Drock

    Drock

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    Heard that. Looks like he was pretty busy beginning of the year, put a bunch of stuff up. We liked his beta for Cherry Canyon in the Gorge.
  18. Yellow Dart

    Yellow Dart It's only hubris if I fail.

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    Didn't feel like putting in the extra +1500' to hit Portal? It's a real calf-burner, 2500 gain in 1.5 miles... but worth it when you're jonesin' come December.

    Mayday is real neat too - rap off a Warthog turbine :twothumbs:
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  19. 2065toyota

    2065toyota

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    Portal defintely the best of the 3 though. I thought it was a lot more fun a few years ago where there was more trees and bushwacking involved
  20. Drock

    Drock

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    Did Portal a few years ago, Yellow Dart, it was awesome. Hadn't done Cherry, wanted to knock that one out. We are anxious to do Portal again as soon as it cools a little as well as Mayday.
    2065toyota likes this.
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