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UT: Robber's Roost Angel slot Dirty Devil. A lucky mom on Mothers day

Discussion in 'Trip Reports' started by wisconnyjohnny, May 15, 2017.

  1. wisconnyjohnny


    On sunday Girlfriend and I awoke pretty much set on this canyon if we could drive to it. Read it was family and beginner friendly. Quick as well.
    The Head.
    Jean my girlfriend upon reaching the first rap began to work herself up in a bad way. 83 ft seemed big, the anchor wasn't "that good".
    "Jean you want me to go first or meat anchor you from the top?"
    "Go first" jean says
    i didn't set a block and just double stranded because i know friction makes jean more comfortable. I coached the drop as it's an awkward ledge. I didn't make it look easy but releasing rope to quickly lower yourself was all about timing on this entry. I made it into the rap with a small scrape of my descender. And then I was down.
    "on rope" jean shouted "on belay" i yelled and smiled.
    Nobody came over the ledge.
    I thought "damn she's really worked herself up"
    I'm a little hesitant to post the rest but lessons can be learned.
    Jean began to try and drop in one time, two times, three times. All the while i was saying take your time get it right. Calm down. I could see her shaking moving irradically unlike normal canyoneer Jean the destroyer.
    Jean backed in feet on ledge and began to lower herself and it looked good then came the timing that she needed to release past the ledge. She didn't. 2 of her fingers got caught beneath her piranha.
    Jean panicked. her legs came off the edge and flailed once she swung parallel to the ground. Again legs flailed once she was upright
    i yelled " i got you, release rope"
    She flailed a third time hand was free but her mind was not and her timing was off. She went over upside down and I pulled that F@,?ing rope tight.
    " I got you calm down release rope. there's a ledge you can lower onto"
    life was bad in this moment.
    Jean was making audible sounds of distress.
    "ok" she says, i give her some slack. I see she's lowering very slowly and is very still. Not swinging or anything. At about 3 ft off the ground she was able to grab top rope for stability but came to rest on the ledge on her back.
    "are you ok" i asked
    She came back with some clever words and " i need to collect myself"
    " check your harness" i said
    she did and it was good. About 90 seconds after being upside down 75 feet over terra firma she continued the rappel as a shaky mess but no other incidents.
    We hugged talked quickly about what happened.
    "you didn't get that on video" she questioned.
    no. No i did not.
    She calmed down and we continued on.
    Second rap is two stage, impossible to get the rope throw all the way down with a 30mph cross wind. I trusted beta and saw that rope bag made it. Off i went. no hitches. Double strand for jean.
    She got into this rap without a problem. Completed it great. The canyon was fun again i think she was thinking. The downclimbs were gravy for her with me spotting and assisting from the bottom.
    Until the sculpted approx 30 ft Downclimb.

    Taking no chances I meat anchored her from the top.
    "how can i help you from down here" she asked
    "I got this buddy" "chuckle
    I didn't for sure know if i had it because i had not done it before or seen all the features that were usable. It was easy.
    The canyon was gorgeous; so gorgeous, I'm pinching and squeezing a bit thinking another downclimb is coming and jean says,
    "you gonna use that anchor ya just passed"
    I chuckled. lolz i was having too much fun. very interesting rap this was. Squeeze about 15 ft from anchor before your on wall.
    I coached jean again and told her there was a spot she would have to smear up and onto the feature to start the rap in earnest after a few feet. she missed her mark by about 2 feet and felt a pinch.
    Awwwe man here we go again i thought.
    " jean ya gotta schooch back up a foot and get on top of the flute to the right."
    with several grunts and some knee and elbow scraping she reversed back and up and then down and Finished the rappel.
    That was her first time feeling an honest pinch in a canyon.
    The canyon narrows and becomes so beautiful at this point with slanted walls. IMG_6257.JPG

    Pretty easy going from here.
    We walked out scraped up but calm. Had a turkey sandwich that was destroyed from bag tossing, on the rim of Beaver Canyon and talked about what happened in more depth on the first rap.
    I'm not sure of the lesson to take out of this, besides maybe she needs more practice or I have to pick canyons with her in mind more carefully.
    what do you do When you go upside down.?
    Lower yourself carefully. Don't panic.
    I told Jean hiking back out the slick rock domes
    Last edited: May 16, 2017
    Sandstone Addiction likes this.
  2. Chris Walden

    Chris Walden

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