OVERVIEW: An exciting technical canyoneering adventure with deep narrows, cold swims and a 320-foot mostly free hanging rappel. Joe and Sara DeSalme discovered this canyon in 2005 and we explored it on several occasions, eventually fixing ropes down to the top of the big drop and jugging out the way we came. Knowing that a long rope was needed, Joe, Sara and Todd Martin returned (after a somewhat unsettled night’s sleep) carrying a 400-foot rope (the longest any of us owned) to complete the first descent of the canyon on August 14, 2005. Joe describes this adventure in the foreword to my book Arizona: Technical Canyoneering.
LOCATION: Coconino National Forest – Tributary of the West Fork of Oak Creek Canyon
REQUIRED GEAR: 2x350' ropes (the canyon may also be completed using 2x300' ropes and completing one additional rappel), 1x100' rope, 80' webbing, 13 rap rings, harness, descender, ascending gear, helmet, carabiners, drybag and a wetsuit.
SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: The water in this canyon is extremely cold, wetsuits are required at all times of the year. Due to the remote and committing nature of this canyon, and the fact that a 300-foot, free hanging rappel is involved, this trip should only be attempted by small groups of fit and experienced canyoneers. Key rappels in this canyon feature bolted anchors; no additional artificial anchors are needed. Finally, be aware that the canyon contains Arizona Bugbane a rare plant that has very narrow habitat restrictions. It exists in only four small population areas in Arizona. All known populations are located within the Coconino, Kaibab and Tonto National Forests.
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The Hype
Getting There
DRIVING DIRECTIONS: Insomnia is located northwest of Sedona in the Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness. The canyon canyon be done as a through trip by spotting a car at the Call of the Canyon Trailhead (resulting in a rather long car shuttle) or as a loop hike using the AB Young Trail.
Route 1 (shorter if coming from the south): From Phoenix, take I-17 north to Sedona (at the exit for Highway 179). Turn left onto Highway 179 and follow it through the town of Oak Creek to Sedona and the intersection with Highway 89A. Drive 17.4 miles north on Highway 89A and turn left on FR 535. Drive 5 miles on this dirt road to a sign pointing left for Harding Point. Turn right (remaining on FR 535) and drive 5.2 miles to a left branching junction with FR 536. Turn left on FR 536 and follow it 0.8 miles to a T-junction. Turn right, remaining on FR 536 and follow it 3.3 miles to where it ends at a T-junction with FR 231. Turn left onto FR #231 (better road). Drive ~15 miles, turn left onto FR #9019M and drive 0.4 miles to a fairly well defined campsite with fire ring on the left.
Route 2 (shorter if coming from the north, easier to follow with better road conditions): From Phoenix, take I-17 north to Flagstaff. Turn left (west) onto Route 66 at a Cheveron gas station and sign for I-40. Drive 1.9 miles on Route 66 and turn left (south) onto Woody Mountain Road following the signs for the arboretum. Woody Mountain Road (which is also Forest Road #231) crosses over Highway 40 and after 1 mile becomes well graded dirt. Drive for 25.6 miles, turn left onto FR #9019M and drive 0.4 miles to a fairly well defined campsite with fire ring on the left.
Optional Car Spot: If descending all the way down the West Fork of Oak Creek a car may be spotted at the Call of the Canyon Trailhead. From Phoenix, take I-17 north to Sedona (at the exit for Highway 179). Turn left onto Highway 179 and follow it through the town of Oak Creek to Sedona. At the T-intersection turn right onto Highway 89A and follow it up Oak Creek Canyon to just past mile marker 385 to the Call of the Canyon Trailhead which is on the left (west). Parking is currently $7 per car, be aware that a Red Rock pass is not valid towards this fee. Also note that the gate to the parking area is locked at 8pm.The Canyon - Rating: 3B IV R Longest Rap: 320' # of Raps: ~13
TRIP DESCRIPTION: From the camping spot described above, walk down the road for 5 minutes then leave the road to the left working your way out to a minor promontory that juts into the drainage. Follow deer trails down the steep slope of the promontory (GPS Point - UTM: 12S 428352 mE, 3872344 mN, WGS84 Datum), avoiding a few minor cliff bands along the way to the bottom of the canyon.
Head downcanyon, following the shallow drainage as it soon begins to cut into the Coconino sandstone to form moss covered narrows. Soon you’ll arrive at rappel #1, which is a 15-footer with an awkward start from chock stone at the top. Below are a few downclimbs including an 8-foot stem into a pool then a large slippery log that must be shimmied down. Once down, wrap a rope around the base of the log to complete a 10’ rappel into a pool. Rappel #3 is 30 feet in length from a small tree at the top followed by rappel #4 which is 20 feet from a sling around a wedged dead log just to the left. Next is a bolt on the right which may be used to protect a 15-foot downclimb into a small keeper pothole (note a big deal, you can use the rope to pull yourself out if necessary). Remain on rope past the pothole to complete a 15-foot rappel over a sharp edge. A few downclimbs will bring you into the nicest section of the canyon, which features pools and deep sculpted narrows. The canyon widens slightly at a point where a fault enters from the left. Just beyond is the sixth rappel, which is 40 feet in length from a clump of trees on a bench on the left. Next is a 25-foot rappel from a pinch point a short distance back from the edge on the right. After a short swim you’ll arrive at a 50-foot rappel from a bolt on the right down a fluted chute into a nice room that can be used as a staging area for the next section of the canyon. A long sling through a hole in a rock fin on the right may be used as an anchor for a 50-foot rappel (use your 100-foot rope to rig this drop) down a crack to a small slanted platform at the head of the big drop, which is 320 feet in length and uses 2 bolts and hangers on a steeply sloped wall on the right for anchors.
Here are a few tips for negotiating this rappel. Because the platform you will be working from is fairly small and can be slick if wet, it is best to have no more than 2 people at a time at the top of the big drop. Because the platform is sloped, everyone should be clipped in to an anchor (either the rope used to rappel down to the platform or the bolts) at all times for protection. If feeding out the rope from a coil do not throw the whole coil over the edge. With a 300-foot rope, it is very possible it could create knots as it falls. It is much easier to sort out a twisted rope standing on solid ground than hanging 200 feet in the air. Instead, flake out 30 to 40 feet of rope and toss it out first. There is a small ledge about 25 feet down that the rope needs to clear. Once that is done, feed out the remaining rope hand over hand until it has been played out. Throughout this process be sure to have the other end of the rope secured. A dropped rope at this point could create very big problems. As an alternative, those with a rope bag can simply chuck it over the edge. Once the rope is down, the next item of concern is that the rope must pass over the sharp edge of the platform. This edge should be protected for all but the last member of the group either through use of a rope pad, or shifting the point of wear on the rope after each rappel, or both. The rappel itself is against the wall for the first hundred feet or so, the next 150 feet are free hanging to a ledge, then you’ll be against a wall for the remainder of the descent. If your rope is exactly 300 feet, you may have to perform another 30-foot rappel from a large boulder on the left to get all the way down to the canyon floor. A few additional tips for those attempting rappel:
- Each member of the group should be capable of adding and removing friction on the fly. As is typical of drops of this size, there will be quite a bit of natural resistance at the top of the drop due to the weight of the rope below you. As you descend, the rappel becomes faster and friction will need to be added in order to remain in control of your descent rate. Rappelling should be done in a smooth and controlled manner to avoid bouncing and rope abrasion.
- After the first person is down, they should be prepared to apply a fireman belay for those that follow.
- Once the rope used for the pull is deployed, care must be taken to keep it clear from those rappelling to prevent entanglement if they should spin on the way down.
- Prior to the last person descending a test pull should be performed. For rappels of this size keeping the ropes separate is critical. If ropes are twisted, the last person down should separate them.
Continue downcanyon over rocks and dead trees and through brush. There are a few downclimbs in this lower section of the canyon that some might want a hand line or belay to negotiate, particularly the last one which consists of a tricky climb down a steep, slippery wall using a pair of dead trees (should these trees wash away, this drop will likely require rope to descend). Just below this drop you will reach a pour-off which enters from the right (this is the exit drainage for Illusions Canyon) and five minutes later you’ll arrive at the junction with the West Fork of Oak Creek Canyon.The Exit
Turn right and walk downstream through scenic Supai Sandstone narrows (the nicest in all of Oak Creek). Shortly after passing through a subway-like section the flat and well maintained West Fork Oak Creek Trail #108 appears that you can follow the remaining 3 miles to the Call of the Canyon Trailhead.Insomnia Map - Printable
Those who have not spotted a car will have to turn right and walk down Highway 89A to the Bootlegger Campground to pick up the steeply graded AB Young Trail #100 that can be followed back up to the rim, forest roads and your car.DRIVING DIRECTIONS: Insomnia is located northwest of Sedona in the Red Rock Secret Mountain Wilderness. The canyon canyon be done as a through trip by spotting a car at the Call of the Canyon Trailhead (resulting in a rather long car shuttle) or as a loop hike using the AB Young Trail.
Route 1 (shorter if coming from the south): From Phoenix, take I-17 north to Sedona (at the exit for Highway 179). Turn left onto Highway 179 and follow it through the town of Oak Creek to Sedona and the intersection with Highway 89A. Drive 17.4 miles north on Highway 89A and turn left on FR 535. Drive 5 miles on this dirt road to a sign pointing left for Harding Point. Turn right (remaining on FR 535) and drive 5.2 miles to a left branching junction with FR 536. Turn left on FR 536 and follow it 0.8 miles to a T-junction. Turn right, remaining on FR 536 and follow it 3.3 miles to where it ends at a T-junction with FR 231. Turn left onto FR #231 (better road). Drive ~15 miles, turn left onto FR #9019M and drive 0.4 miles to a fairly well defined campsite with fire ring on the left.
Route 2 (shorter if coming from the north, easier to follow with better road conditions): From Phoenix, take I-17 north to Flagstaff. Turn left (west) onto Route 66 at a Cheveron gas station and sign for I-40. Drive 1.9 miles on Route 66 and turn left (south) onto Woody Mountain Road following the signs for the arboretum. Woody Mountain Road (which is also Forest Road #231) crosses over Highway 40 and after 1 mile becomes well graded dirt. Drive for 25.6 miles, turn left onto FR #9019M and drive 0.4 miles to a fairly well defined campsite with fire ring on the left.
Optional Car Spot: If descending all the way down the West Fork of Oak Creek a car may be spotted at the Call of the Canyon Trailhead. From Phoenix, take I-17 north to Sedona (at the exit for Highway 179). Turn left onto Highway 179 and follow it through the town of Oak Creek to Sedona. At the T-intersection turn right onto Highway 89A and follow it up Oak Creek Canyon to just past mile marker 385 to the Call of the Canyon Trailhead which is on the left (west). Parking is currently $7 per car, be aware that a Red Rock pass is not valid towards this fee. Also note that the gate to the parking area is locked at 8pm.TRIP DESCRIPTION: From the camping spot described above, walk down the road for 5 minutes then leave the road to the left working your way out to a minor promontory that juts into the drainage. Follow deer trails down the steep slope of the promontory (GPS Point - UTM: 12S 428352 mE, 3872344 mN, WGS84 Datum), avoiding a few minor cliff bands along the way to the bottom of the canyon.
Head downcanyon, following the shallow drainage as it soon begins to cut into the Coconino sandstone to form moss covered narrows. Soon you’ll arrive at rappel #1, which is a 15-footer with an awkward start from chock stone at the top. Below are a few downclimbs including an 8-foot stem into a pool then a large slippery log that must be shimmied down. Once down, wrap a rope around the base of the log to complete a 10’ rappel into a pool. Rappel #3 is 30 feet in length from a small tree at the top followed by rappel #4 which is 20 feet from a sling around a wedged dead log just to the left. Next is a bolt on the right which may be used to protect a 15-foot downclimb into a small keeper pothole (note a big deal, you can use the rope to pull yourself out if necessary). Remain on rope past the pothole to complete a 15-foot rappel over a sharp edge. A few downclimbs will bring you into the nicest section of the canyon, which features pools and deep sculpted narrows. The canyon widens slightly at a point where a fault enters from the left. Just beyond is the sixth rappel, which is 40 feet in length from a clump of trees on a bench on the left. Next is a 25-foot rappel from a pinch point a short distance back from the edge on the right. After a short swim you’ll arrive at a 50-foot rappel from a bolt on the right down a fluted chute into a nice room that can be used as a staging area for the next section of the canyon. A long sling through a hole in a rock fin on the right may be used as an anchor for a 50-foot rappel (use your 100-foot rope to rig this drop) down a crack to a small slanted platform at the head of the big drop, which is 320 feet in length and uses 2 bolts and hangers on a steeply sloped wall on the right for anchors.
Here are a few tips for negotiating this rappel. Because the platform you will be working from is fairly small and can be slick if wet, it is best to have no more than 2 people at a time at the top of the big drop. Because the platform is sloped, everyone should be clipped in to an anchor (either the rope used to rappel down to the platform or the bolts) at all times for protection. If feeding out the rope from a coil do not throw the whole coil over the edge. With a 300-foot rope, it is very possible it could create knots as it falls. It is much easier to sort out a twisted rope standing on solid ground than hanging 200 feet in the air. Instead, flake out 30 to 40 feet of rope and toss it out first. There is a small ledge about 25 feet down that the rope needs to clear. Once that is done, feed out the remaining rope hand over hand until it has been played out. Throughout this process be sure to have the other end of the rope secured. A dropped rope at this point could create very big problems. As an alternative, those with a rope bag can simply chuck it over the edge. Once the rope is down, the next item of concern is that the rope must pass over the sharp edge of the platform. This edge should be protected for all but the last member of the group either through use of a rope pad, or shifting the point of wear on the rope after each rappel, or both. The rappel itself is against the wall for the first hundred feet or so, the next 150 feet are free hanging to a ledge, then you’ll be against a wall for the remainder of the descent. If your rope is exactly 300 feet, you may have to perform another 30-foot rappel from a large boulder on the left to get all the way down to the canyon floor. A few additional tips for those attempting rappel:
- Each member of the group should be capable of adding and removing friction on the fly. As is typical of drops of this size, there will be quite a bit of natural resistance at the top of the drop due to the weight of the rope below you. As you descend, the rappel becomes faster and friction will need to be added in order to remain in control of your descent rate. Rappelling should be done in a smooth and controlled manner to avoid bouncing and rope abrasion.
- After the first person is down, they should be prepared to apply a fireman belay for those that follow.
- Once the rope used for the pull is deployed, care must be taken to keep it clear from those rappelling to prevent entanglement if they should spin on the way down.
- Prior to the last person descending a test pull should be performed. For rappels of this size keeping the ropes separate is critical. If ropes are twisted, the last person down should separate them.
Continue downcanyon over rocks and dead trees and through brush. There are a few downclimbs in this lower section of the canyon that some might want a hand line or belay to negotiate, particularly the last one which consists of a tricky climb down a steep, slippery wall using a pair of dead trees (should these trees wash away, this drop will likely require rope to descend). Just below this drop you will reach a pour-off which enters from the right (this is the exit drainage for Illusions Canyon) and five minutes later you’ll arrive at the junction with the West Fork of Oak Creek Canyon.Turn right and walk downstream through scenic Supai Sandstone narrows (the nicest in all of Oak Creek). Shortly after passing through a subway-like section the flat and well maintained West Fork Oak Creek Trail #108 appears that you can follow the remaining 3 miles to the Call of the Canyon Trailhead.Insomnia Map - Printable
Those who have not spotted a car will have to turn right and walk down Highway 89A to the Bootlegger Campground to pick up the steeply graded AB Young Trail #100 that can be followed back up to the rim, forest roads and your car.Previous Next
Condition Reports for Insomnia
The information provided here is intended for entertainment purposes only. The creator of this information and/or Canyon Collective are not liable for any harm or damage caused by this information. Conditions in the backcountry are constantly changing, only you are responsible for your safety and well being.
